Is there a reason the injectors would not be opening only when it is hot?

The link you gave isn't working and I couldn't figure out how to tunnel in on their site and find it so I don't know what the paperclip test is.

Spark plugs are new as of a couple of months ago.

What continues to be odd to me is that I can drive for hours on the freeway and it won't die until I get off an exit. I can also drive for 10 minutes on a freeway or highway and as soon as I slow down to turn a corner or get off an exit, it dies. When getting off an exit, it won't die until I have slowed way down or stopped. I can put the clutch in way before I get off and coast all the way to the stop sign and it won't die until I am almost to a complete stop.

 

http://www.dhost.info/accordinfo

 

One possibility happened to my brother many years ago w/ an 86 Accord. Car would run fine and then mysteriously die. After waiting a while it would start and run again for some time. After eliminating everything else he decided the fuel pump was somehow the problem. He dropped the fuel tank and withdrew the pump. He found a lot of trash in the tank. Trash would be picked by the inlet screen until fuel flow was obstructed enough to cause stoppage. Trash apparently would drop off the screen when car stopped allowing it to restart again, and start the cycle again. Cleaned tank, replaced screen and fuel pump and never had any further problems.

I mention this because you indicated that stoppage occurs when stopping andturning corners. It may be trash or debris blocking the fuel pump inlet or baffle ports.

good luck

 

That is good advise but I already checked, twice. I put a new fuel pump in and the new filter that came would not fit on the end of the pump so I had to reuse the old one. Thinking that maybe something had broken off the old filter, I dropped the tank again and checked it thoroughly, including the tank. Everything was clean as can be and no issues that way.

I am really afraid to take it to someone because I know it is going to cost me a fortune since there are no error codes coming up and you have to drive it for a while even to make it happen. It's not like I can even make it happen as I pull into a shop. However, I am not sure what else to check. Sooooo frustrated!!

 

Was there a baffle around the fuel pump? This is a tube that fits against bottom of tank w/ small openings for fuel to enter. Baffle traps fuel to prevent acceleration effects from pulling fuel away from fuel pump. No baffle would explain engine stoppage after braking and turns. I've heard of this before where someone removed the baffle in a mistaken attempt to "improve fuel flow".

Suggest the starter fluid or throttle body spray into throttle body test described above. Somehow, either spark or fuel is missing despite everything you've done. This helps to reduce the problem scope and look for a solution. There is no substitute for persistance. Taking to a shop may not help w/ such an intermittent problem. They will not have the patience necessary and will only charge you for a "checkout" or want to start replacing parts at random.

good luck

 

Have you checked the high tension lead resistance? Leads with high resistance give a weak spark, and lead resistance increases with temperature of the leads. If you have resistant leads then they are still being fed X electrical energy at one end, but a lot of it isn't reaching the plug end.

Since we know that 'energy cannot be created nor destroyed' (according to Newton), it has to be going somewhere, and that somewhere is into the leads themselves as heat, i.e. resistant leads get hotter than non resistant leads (i.e. leads within spec resistance), causing the leads to become even more resistant, causing more heat, causing more resistance...

In slow driving, under bonnet (hood for Yanks) temps are higher than in faster driving when more airflow exists, so the leads will tend to be hotter when driving more slowly, especially in traffic etc. So, in slow driving you may have more lead resistance than on the highway...


Also, resistant leads cause heat to 'back up' in the ignition system, i.e. energy is having a harder time passing through the leads, so the energy is heating the leads more than usual, but also tending to heat up things such as the coil and the 'ignitor'. The ignitor is sensitive to heat, especially if it's marginal. I had an ignitor die, then a few weeks later had the replacement die (both times with symptoms somewhat similar to yours, but second time not quite the same as first time). After some research I discovered that resistant leads cause ignitor failure because they cause the ignitor to run hotter than they are supposed to do...

So, rising temp = rising lead resistance, may also = increasing malfunction of the ignitor, both may = lack of spark = dead engine. Allow to cool down, = less resistance and / or ignitor working again, = off you go, till heat rises etc...

 

Thanks TexasHonda. I will persist and do the test you suggest. Where do you spray fluid in on an injection system? I don't think I know where the throttle body even is.

JohnL. I understand the theory and agree that could be an issue but I don't know where the high tension lead is or what it is. Can you clarify for the inept?

 

Remove air intake duct. It connects to throttle body entrance. Spray into the throttle body entrance while cranking the engine. Note, this will only work when no-start condition is present!

High tension leads are your spark plug wires. A good idea to check them. I like to spray wires and distributo w/ a mist of water at night and watch for sparks. There should be none.

good luck

 

Update: The weather has finally warmed into the 80's again so the problem is lasting for 2-3 minutes instead of 45 seconds so I did some more testing.

I am definitely getting good spark through the timing light when I have a no start.Appears to be fuel issue.I sprayed starter fluid in the throttle body and it started for a minute and then died. I did it again and it started and continued running so I decided to put the air duct back on the throttle body and it died immediately. (Note: it will normally idle foreveronce it is restarted.) Assuming I was narrowing things down, I decided to drive for a bit with the duct to the side thinking that the airflow was being restricted and it was related to that. It died shortly after. I am confident it isa fuel issue. Not fuel pump though because I ALWAYS hear the fuel pump on the no start.

More ideas?

 

Have you verified that your injectors are good? Fuel pressure regulator?