Hi.
I drive a 95 Accord LX 2.2L L4 non-VTEC, and have been having some starting issues. About a week ago I go out to start the car. I will note it was pretty warm out. Got crank, but no start on some trys, others it would start up fine. Noticed that when it wouldn't start up, I couldn't hear the fuel pump kick on. Did a little research, found that a lot of people have issues with the main relay. I went to a nearby scrapyard and salvaged another relay off another 95 accord I found. Came back home, popped it in, same issue. Sometimes it would start, sometimes just crank. Next day, car cranks again but no start, so I messed around with the shift lever a bit, got it to start up. Checked all fuses relating to ignition and fuel system as well.

This is where I'm at so far. I don't know if my original main relay was shot, and if so, if the one I got from the scrapyard was either. I've read that the fuel pump often isn't the issue, but I haven't completely written it off yet. I don't know if messing around with the shift lever actually did something or if it was just a coincidence that it started when it did. Anyway, would appreciate whatever help you can give.

 

Can you do some soldering?

Search around here for repairing the solder joints on the circuit board inside the main-relay case. Chances are both relays have cracked and are having the same common problem.

 

I could try that. Is there anything that will show on the circuit board that it is cracked? I don't have much experience with cars; this is my first. I could send a picture of the circuit board if that would help.

 

One good look with a magnifying glass will tell you if you have a cracked solder joint (very common).

 

Thank you, I'll have a look

 

Forgot to mention, after messing around with the shifter, turned the key on and the D4 light flashes on and off repeatedly

 

I don't find the photo that I'm thinking about, but you look at the back side of the circuit board, opposite from the components. Each little pin poking through is soldered, and you're looking for any of them that are cracked. While you're there, also look for solder that is dull rather than shiny, because the whole thing is about not getting hot enough when it was manufactured. I don't know that its always the same pin, so just take a good look at them all. If you've done any soldering before you'll recognize it.

Take a soldering pencil and re-melt the solder to make a nice connection. Maybe the hardest part is opening the plastic case...

 

Flashing D4 lamp...

Transmission uses that lamp the same way as the check-engine light.
If you've ever checked for error codes from the check-engine light, the procedure is exactly the same. Except it's the D4 lamp that flashes a code instead of the CEL. And it uses a whole different list of error codes. Post what code is displayed by the flashing.

 

Update: This morning I went out and tried to start it again, didn't start, didn't hear the pump. The car had an aftermarket remote start system installed some time before I got the car. I left the key on, and wiggled some of the wires around near the remote start; heard the pump turn on, and started the car. Any chance the remote start system could be messing things up? Also, from what I can tell D4 light is not flashing any particular code, it just flashes consistently on and off for a long time.

 

I was going to ask if it had either a remote start or an alarm installed. Both seem to do similar things on cars (keep them from running).