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95 Accord still idling bad after all this??

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Old Apr 12, 2012 | 03:05 AM
  #11  
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Hey guys,

Sorry it took so long to update. Have been very busy. (going to school for Master Automotive Technician ) So the past couple of days has been full of work on my car. All kinds of weird twists and turns that I went through. My EGR ports were completely clogged up, like you said. Cleaned them out with a small screwdriver, brake cleaner, and a shop vac. Made sure nothing stayed down in there. The cover for the EGR ports was also full of carbon so I cleaned the hell out of that too. Then I cleaned the EGR valve and replaced all the vacuum hoses on and around my fuel rail just because it needed it. Also cleaned the fuel rail nozzles too.

So when I put it all back together and started it, it took an abnormal amount of cranks to get it going because it has to suck fuel back through the rail. Then it sputtered to life and ran super rough for about 15 seconds. It was idling at about 2500 rpms and then when it warmed up dropped to 1500. Then raised to 2500. 1500. 2500. 1500. Very consistently. I was super nervous so I called a friend and he told me to tighten my idle screw alot. Basically, the computer was dropping the rpms and the idle was trying to raise it. I drove around and stopped every 1/2 mile to get it back to perfect idle and it took about half an hour of minute adjusting but FINALLY it started running like a champ!

It stopped dying at stop signs, runs alot cooler and doesnt overheat anymore, idles normal in park, and doesnt drop to near zero in drive anymore. Problem solved finally!

I appreciate the help guys I would have never thought to clean my EGR ports.

@JimBlake
I used your number one method. I didnt set the timing by myself but my friend who works as a mechanic helped me because he had a timing light and we set it to that middle mark. Car runs like butter now.
 
Old Apr 13, 2012 | 05:58 PM
  #12  
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Glad you got it....

Thanks for updating the thread with the answer.
 
Old Apr 17, 2012 | 03:12 AM
  #13  
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Well I have another problem going on with this. Nothing major though.

Car is still idling great in drive. But now sometimes when its in park it does the whole idle up and down thing. I thought it was my FIT valve so I pulled my throttle body apart once more and cleaned it. No luck. Thought it might be a bad mass air flow sensor. Guess my car doesnt have one because there was no wire going into my intake even before I put a cold air intake on it? So now im thinking it might be my throttle position sensor? Is it as simple as just checking to see if it has resistance or am I gonna have to throw a new sensor at my car?
 
Old Apr 17, 2012 | 03:46 AM
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Tyler - have you bled ALL THE AIR from the cooling system?
If I do anything to my cooling system I have to bleed it or I get an erratic idle just like you are describing.

Also good job working on your car, sounds like you are really going to be a good mechanic one day. What school are you going to?
 
Old Apr 17, 2012 | 01:06 PM
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After messing with the throttle body & the other stuff, do the procedure of setting the BASE idle.
 
Old Apr 17, 2012 | 01:36 PM
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Base idle=idle screw? Or timing? With that procedure you posted?

Also, I have not bled all the air out of the coolant system. Is there a actual bleeder or is there another way?
 
Old Apr 17, 2012 | 02:05 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by crispin
Also good job working on your car, sounds like you are really going to be a good mechanic one day. What school are you going to?
Thanks man, I appreciate that. Right now im going to a community college in central oregon called COCC. After I get all 8 of the ASE certificates, im going to go to UTI to go for diesel. Im actually in the auto lab now. Gotta love going on HAF while im also doing lab work
 
Old Apr 17, 2012 | 02:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Tyler Joyce
Base idle=idle screw? Or timing? With that procedure you posted?

Also, I have not bled all the air out of the coolant system. Is there a actual bleeder or is there another way?
Bro i think your problem is air in the system.

Look at the lower radiator hose, it goes up to the intake, there is a bleeder screw right on top, start the car, open the bleeder, air will hiss out for a while then coolant will start to come out, close the valve, then post up about how great I am for solving your idle problem

Bleed the system before you do anything else. TTYL
 
Old Apr 17, 2012 | 02:35 PM
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LOL your awesome crispin. Ill let you know how it goes after I get out of school.
 
Old Apr 17, 2012 | 05:44 PM
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After a mixture of bleeding the coolant system and adjusting the idle screw a little more (since it idled way higher after I put a CAI on it obviously because it could breathe better), its fixed. I wont really be able to tell until it goes through its warming up process tomorrow but when its warm it doesnt do the up down idle thing anymore.

Thanks crispin. I will be sure to bow down to you all over HAF. :P
 



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