I have a 1995 accord, 2.2L vtec., just rolled over 200K. Last week the car became hard to start. It would turn over strong just won't fire off. After trying to start it multiple times it would finally start up and run. During the drive home or to work I didn't ever notice any problems with it's performance, idling, or cruising capabilities. I'm trying to fix the problem now. I have, for good measure, replaced the rotor, cap, distributor, spark plugs, and wires. I checked the fuel pressure and it was right at 30-31 psi, which is on the low side. I changed the fuel filter, but still the same it won't start. The battery is strong and the car turns over well. I know I have spark and fuel but it is like the timing is way off. They only weird thing is the timing doesn't seem to be an issue once the engine is running. The timing belt was last changed at 186K. Has anyone heard of this? Please help!

 

Loss of fuel pressure can be quite tricky to definitively confirm. An intermittent Main Fuel Relay (MFR) or fuel pump can cause confusing symptoms.

When no-start is presented, turn keyswitch to On and listen carefully for MFR to come on under dash (2 soft clicks) and fuel pump in fuel tank to run for 2-3 secs and go off. If you don't hear these sounds, either MFR or fuel pump could be the problem.

If you hear MFR and fuel pump every time keyswitch is turned to On, fuel delivery is likely fine.

When you perform above test, note whether Check Engine, Alt, and Oil Pressure lights come on w/ the keyswitch to On. If not, an intermittent keyswitch assy may be the problem.

good luck

 

These were my first thoughts. The main relay is fine and I can hear the clicking and the fuel pump runs for a couple of seconds before starting.

Yes the check engine light, alt, and oil pressure lights come on when the key is in the on position. I had the switch go bad on me a couple years ago so this switch is only a few years old.

I plan on digging more into the timing and checking the compression tonight.

 

I'd also test the ECT sensor, they can cause hard cold starts without setting a code.

 

ECT sensor checked out good. The timing belt looked good and had not jumped a tooth. The auto parts store did not have a compression tester in but I will get one tomorrow and check it then. I also plan on pulling the fuel rail and checking for debris tomorrow. The injectors and their resistor bank checked good. If I can get it started I will check the timing with a light. Will let y'all know.

Anymore ideas?

 

Your measured fuel pressure of 31 psi is on the low side. You might check the fuel pressure regulator. It could have a busted diaphragm, which could be detected by smelling the vacuum reference line. Also your fuel pressure would go to zero as soon as the fuel pump is stopped.

There is a pickup screen on the fuel pump. If screen is blocked w/ debris, low fuel pressure would result.

good luck

 

The compression check is done, cyl1-140 PSI then all others were right at 150 PSI.

The fuel pressure regulator is good, it holds pressure. No gas smell in the vacuum line.

Next step drop the tank and check the fuel pump sock for debris. While it's down I'm probably going to go ahead and replace the fuel pump. We shall see.

 

Replaced fuel pump and strainer (sock). Still no luck.

Anymore ideas?!

 

Suggest trying to start w/ throttle body cleaner or ether sprayed into the air intake. A good long blast of 10 secs or so of spray. If car starts, you know that fuel delivery is the problem, despite all that's been done.

If it doesn't start, then ignition fault is indicated. First check blk/yel wire at distributor for 12v w/ keyswitch On.

good luck

 

I'm wondering what the readings on the ECT were and at what temps.....just me