I took the ECT out to get better contact on it. At room temp it was 2200 ohms and with hot water from the faucet it was around 850 ohms. Not sure the exact temps.

After work I'm getting a noid light to check that the injectors are firing at start up. Will also buy carb cleaner to see if it fires off on that.

 

I just went through a no-start issue with my '97 that has nearly the same mileage. It cranked just fine. Prior to the no-start, it would occasionally start up kind of rough for the first few seconds. Spent too many hours following the book and decided to check the basics. Pulled the plugs and found water in the #2 cylinder. Vacuumed out the water with a shop vac and it started up (a little rough at first, though). Also, when I started it up cold and pulled the radiator cap, I saw bubbles.

I assume you checked your plugs for anything unusual when the compression test was done, but if not, check the plugs for coolant or the radiator for bubbles.

Good luck.

 

try spraying some starting fluid into the TB. If you have spark it should start up. it sounds like an insufficient fuel issue.

 

You might want to compare those values to those in the service manual.

EDIT: I'm thinking, instead of adding fuel.....what happens if you open the throttle to ~1/3 or so?

 

At poorman212, the values are right on what the manual says they should be.

Was about to spray starting fluid to see if it would start but I didn't.

While I was outside tonight checking electrical stuff I had a BREAKTHROUGH!!! The check engine light stays on. I can also hear a weird soft mid to high pitch humming sound from the front side of the engine. Once the sounds stops the check engine lights goes out and the car will crank immediately! If I try before no fire. I timed it once I turned the key to when the CEL went out and it was 1 minute 15 seconds, this time does not seem to be consistent though. Seems like it's electrical and the component that is making the sound is bad or going out. Will try to pin point tomorrow and let everyone know.

If anyone knows what this might be before I start searching please let me know!

 

The sound was the solenoid firing for the idle air control valve (IACV). I checked it as the manual says and everything is good. I removed it so I could see if the plunger or anything is moving and I didn't notice anything. Would this cause the MIL (CEL) to stay on? I don't want to just go buy another one as they are fairly expensive ($225).

Any insight would be greatly appreciated.

 

Turn the key to the II position, but do not try to start the car. When the check engine light turns on (usually about two seconds) do you hear the fuel pump turn on? It is a buzzing sound from the back seat, so listen carefully.

Have you checked for engine codes?

 

The fuel pump does run but not immediately, the check engine light stays lit for at least a minute or more. I checked for engine codes but the light just stays solid (no blinking)

 

i'd download the shop manual and follow the diagnostic flowcharts

 

Is your accord an automatic or manual transmission? If an auto, does the D4 light stay turned on or start blinking?