I have a '95 Accord EX auto and the other day I hooked my 3rd brake light up and later on in town I asked someone to see if it even worked still. I had no brake lights at all. I checked the fuse and it was blown so I replaced it and when I put a good fuse in they light up. Thought a sticky brake button on the pedal but before I tear the dash apart to check it is there anything else to check? I have turns and tails but the brake light is stuck in the "on" position.

 

so in other words your break lights are always on? if this is the case there is a little plastic piece that goes between the pedal itself and the arm with the break switch that actually will sometimes shatter. i recently had to replace mine because the break lights were always on. if i am wrong about what your are saying please correct me.

 

I don't think you have to tear too much apart to see that switch. Have a look at it...

 

Are you saying the rear brake lights are always on....if so I'd check the "plug" on the brake pedal...happen to see a strange plastic thing in the floor board?

Which light on the dash are you talking about. The Brake light-same as when the e-brake is on or the one on the little car icon?

 

Yes, your right about what I'm saying. They stay on and when I noticed this is because they weren't on. I guess the current being non stop blew it. After I replaced the blown fuse I noticed then that they're stuck on. I'm about to have a look at the button under the dash.


Now, the cars cutting out, when it's cold it does it bad but when warm it does it a lot still at idle, but while doing 55-60 unless you know what it is you'll think it's running fine but I can still hear it. I hear a broken temp sensor can cause this but it just started and I have 300-400 miles on the broken sensor. After a few weeks I ran the code, until I knew I could shops wanted $30 to run the code. When I get the sensor tomorrow I'll get the button if it's broke.

 

Ok, if they are on ALL the time. Almost sure the "plug" is broken. You can pull the stoplight fuse from the underhood fuse panel to prevent the battery from going dead until the repair. EDIT: the part number for the "plug"-46505-SA5-000 about $4 at the dealer.

What code or sensor is broken? Sorry a little confused on the second part....to get the codes on a 95, you only need a paperclip. Check the Common DIY Threads at the top of this section for a "how to".

 

Well, the switch at the pedal is at the front of the pedal at the top and it's a tight fit. I unplugged it and the lights go off so I'm guessing the switch is stuck? It must be inside because the button works properly and isn't broken.

 

On the "pedal arm" there should be a plastic "plug" that contacts that switch-is it there or is there a "hole" with nothing to close the switch....or another way, plug it back in, push the switch closed and see if the tail lights go off.

 

I noticed a broken sensor after running the CEL code. The temp sensor under the distributor on the head was broken off. I have it ordered and it'll be here in a few hours from now. It was $15.49, and I'll get the brake light button too.

 

That sounds like the ECT, which would cause hard starts. Have to rule that out before getting into other things....

How are the brake lights?