Can some one please help me figure out why my engine is shaking @ idle. The CEL is on. Ran the code and it flashed 4 times kinda fast. Code 4 is Crankshaft Position Sensor CKP Check sensor and circuit. I did the resistance test on the plug and it was within limits @ 851 ohmns. I do not know the history of the car because I just baught it with this problem. It is definatly a timing issue. I took the distributor of the car and noticed that is was a remanufactured unit. Maybe it is defective. What do you guys think?

 

Are you sure you checked the correct wires? There are three sensors; CYP, CKP, and TDC in the distributor. None of the sensors are replaceable parts. It would be good to know that all sensors are in acceptable range 700-1300 ohms. Make sure your VOM is working correctly. Resistance measurements are easy to get wrong.

Check engine side harness for signs of wire damage that could cause this fault. It's a hassle to disconnect the ECU mating connector and check the wiring, but that is only way to be sure.

If everything checks OK, the distributor itself may be faulty (too large sensor/magnet clearance, worn bearing/bushing). I once damaged my sensor mounting by forcing the distributor into place w/ distributor key off by 180 degs. I was able to open and repair the damage to correct the problem. You might want to open the distributor and look for any obvious faults. In my case there was a bent frame inside the distributor.

Otherwise a replacement part from either a salvage yard or aftermarket is required. I've had good luck w/ used parts found through car-part.com using the search feature to findparts near my zip code.

good luck

 

I will open the distributor tonight. Also I will check the harness. When I put the distributor back n do i have to use a timing light to check timing or just put it back in the same position? I do not think this a major problem.

 

I usually just mark the mounting bracket and distributor and align the marks to previous position. ECU gets timing information from distributor sensors and likely sets timing to required value regardless of static distributor position, w/i reason.

Note, the key on the distributor must be oriented to fit the camshaft keyway. One side of key is slightly thicker than other side to provide a "foolproof" key. It's not foolproof, as I can attest. Look carefully, and if distributor does not seem to fit, you're probably off by 180.

Also, it is possible to install the distributor drive key on the distributor shaft off by 180 degrees. Guess how I know this? Just take your time and I don't think you'll have problems. Not that many parts in the distributor. Some of phillips-head mounting screws were extremely tight. I had to use a sharp chisel to loosen them w/ sideways blows.

good luck

 

To Add to the above suggestions, always check that the spark shield is underthe rotor.
Many times people throw them away, but stray spark voltage can cause codes like yours

 

I changed the distributor since the ckp sensor is inside. The problem still persist. Trouble code # 4 and engine shaking @ idle. Does anyone think the crank shaft might be of timing causing the sensor to read the correct problem?

 

New distributor & the problem is still there, so it must have been in the wiring all along.

There isn't any sensor on the crankshaft itself, so the ECU has no way of knowing if the crank/cam is in proper time.

 

it might be that the engie isnt getting enough air at idle bc the Idle Adjustment Screw is too tight. loosen it and your rpm will start to go up while loosening it. this is what i had to to do mine. dont unscrew it too much, only turn it 1/2 turn until you hear the idle increase.

the screw should be flat head and be on the top left of your throttle body near the intake

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I will try that tommorow morning. But i was told by the previous owner that it is a timing issue and that is all he knows. I will let you know what happens when i turn that screw. Thanks
Yan
aka
Mr Open NE Lock

 

Code 4 can't be fixed by adjusting idle speed. As JimBlake suggested, the wiring from distributor connector to ECU must be checked for a fault. Check sensor resistance at the ECU connector. If you get a short or open, the wiring or the connector at the distributor could be the problem.

If resistance checks OK, this would suggest the ECU connector as the only possible source of the fault.

good luck
good luck