TexasHonda basically gave you directions to determine which wire is at fault. He was trying to help you determine which wire to repair open wire on page 11-43. Since your tests came back within the proper range, you do not have to do this.

He basically wanted you to unplug the 14-pin connector and hook a wire up to one of the two pins on the ECU side of the connector and connect the other end of that wire to the engine block (ground). Then he wanted you to to measure the resistance at the ECU plug to body ground and report the readings. The reading should have been zero (or close) for both wires. A different reading would have indicated a bad wire.

You are basically at the end of the diagnostic tree. There is one last test on that page. You probe the B15 pin at the ECU connector (blu/grn wire) to ground and check if is a continous circuit. Most digital volt meters have a setting for continuity where the meter beeps when you touch the probes together (closed circuit). Put the red tip in the ECU connector at blu/grn wire and touch the black probe tip to a bolt that screws into something metal (or touch threaded hole for the ECU cover). That should cause the volt meter to beep, ie a closed circuit. That blu/grn wire at the ECU connector should be a closed circuit.

If you do not have this continuity function on the meter, use the resistance setting. A resistance of zero (or close to zero) would also mean a closed circuit.

 

I've re-read this entire thread, and suggest swapping a used ECU to your car to check. It could be a fault in the ECU circuit board. That is all that is left. ECU's are very good and frankly this is a long shot, however considering all your effort, I don't think you should stop now. Check car-part.com for a replacement ECU near you. You should be able to find a unit for <$100 easily, perhaps < $50.

Hope you got a good deal on the car since you've had a lot of bad luck.

good luck

 

Yeah that is my next plan. I seen a lot of accords at the junk yard here in Toledo, OH. But most of them are LX model or stick shift. Can I use those ECU's or does the car have to be and EX?

I bought the car for $500 invested $700 in it already and I am not giving up now. I will keep everyone posted on what happens. This is my summer project. lol

 

The site car-part.com will tell which cars are donors to your cars so check it out. I don't know for sure, but I've found their cross-reference feature to be very handy. I think ECU replacement does have to be from an EX, because the LX does not have Vtec and Vtec is actuated based on a pre-mapped schedule embedded in firmware of ECU.

good luck

 

I read the stuff about continuity to ground...

The wires should NOT have continuity to ground. So if you use the RESISTANCE setting on the meter it should NOT read zero. Zero resistance is a GOOD connection to ground, a short circuit.

You want the meter to read overload or infinite resistance. Whatever it displays when you simply hold the meter leads & dont touch them to anything.

 

OK guys we did it once again. This problem is SOLVED. I bought a ECU from junk yard for $40. They give me good deal since I bought so many parts from them already. Plugged it in. CEL is gone revs perfect. VTEC kicks in. Pretty fast car I would say. My friend opened the ECU and said it had a bad resistor. This is rear for Hondas but who knew.


Thanks guys.
All of you are great. The dealer told me all I needed was a "tune up" using OEM parts. I paid $100 for that diag. But it needed a new engine and ECU. I got to get my money back. lol

1 luv Yan

 

Cool, glad its fixed. ECUs are pretty robust, so all the measuring was to rule out bad wiring which is actually more likely than a bad ECU.