The Air Conditioning/Heater fan decided to stop working today.

I want to check the fuse(s) controlling the fan. According to the owner's manual, I need to check the following: Under-Hood Fuse Box - Fuse No. 20, Heater Blower, 40 amps.

Do I also need to check the Interior Fuse Box - Fuse No. 8, Heater Control Relay & Cooling Fan Relay, 7.5 amps?

Any other ideas and suggestions appreciated.

Thanks,


Rob

 

Yes, need to check both.....the large 40 amp fuse is the actual power to blower via the relay. The under dash is the power to the realy for the coil to close and let the "40amp" power flow to the motor.

Cut to the chase and pull the two wire connector on the blower and see if you have power and ground on the wires? YEL/BLK should be the power (+) to the motor......if there, give the motor a "love tap" with something (screw driver handle?) and see if the motor spins.

 

How do I access the blower? Is there a panel I pull off, similar to the 2004 Accord, or does the whole glove box need to be removed?

Also, I'm not familiar with checking for power and ground on the wires, so any help or link to a video would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Rob

 

On the 5th gens, getting to the blower is easy. From the pass side floor you can just look up at the "evap/heater core" box and see it.

 

Here's where I stand:

I checked both fuses, and I don't see any indication either has burned out.

The blower motor seems to have burned out. I presume this is true, based on the smell emanating from the motor.

There's voltage going to the motor, but it's low.

Is the next step to replace the old resistor with a new one?

Also, can the wiring be borked, and still have current?

Thanks again. It's been really hot here, so I want to get this repaired asap.


Rob

 

What voltage are you getting? How where are you placing the meter probes?

 

I had the work done for me at Pep Boys. The technician said the voltage was "low" but didn't give me a reading.

 

The voltage can be low, because there are resistors to essentially lower the voltage on the fan to change speeds.

You could unplug the fan, hook up your volt meter, then see the change in voltage switching the fan switch.

If you determine the fan motor is bad, I recommend getting it from Honda. I had problems with an aftermarket one I bought on my 95 accord, plus I had to directly wire it up. The Honda blower motor came with the cage wasn't much more in price vs aftermarket and worked great.

 

OK, I follow you here.

So the question then is this: If there's a low voltage coming thru the wire, does that mean the resistor is working? I read in another thread that with a broken resistor, the blower will run at top speed only.

Also, can you explain "directly wire it up?"

The blower motor is definitely bad. The tech removed it, and there's a burnt smell emanating from the motor.


Additional Details:

They got the A/C running, after installing a new resistor and a new relay.

However, the Standard Motor Products brand blower motor I got at Advance Auto Parts doesn't quite work. There's cold air, but it's not being efficiently expelled. I'm surprised here, as I've had good luck in the past with Standard's replacement parts.


I ordered an OEM part from Honda, something I hate doing because it's a rip off.

If anybody's interested in the relative prices, let me know. And no laughing please.

Thanks,

Rob

 

The Honda blower has two prongs on it, so the plug from the wire harness will plug right in. The aftermarket blower will have two wires sticking out of it, so you have to cut off the plug from the wire harness and directly connect them.

It depends on how you use the volt meter to measure voltage. If you use a good ground like a bare metal bolt with your meter, you should get 12V.

I am almost positive that if you use the ground wire for the fan, the voltage measurement should be 12V when the fan is set to high. When you switch to lower fan speeds, the voltage measurement will change on your meter. The ground wire gets more resistance as you turn down the fan switch.