Look at the AC compressor pulley with the engine running AC off, and have someone turn the AC on while keeping your eye on the compressor. The area just in front of the pulley should now be turning with the pulley.

To just test the AC you can forgo the vacuum part of the recharge and do that when you get this sorted out. Vacuuming removes the moisture and makes everything last longer.

 

I was wrong about which side of the circuit you will have to test next.

It would be obvious that the clutch is engaging, because it would spin with the pulley.

You should check the resistance of the coil (see pic). It should be 3.6 ohms.

That phillips head bolt that is shown in the picture is the ground for the compressor. You may want to remove it and sand the connection and compressor housing to make sure that you have a good ground connection.

 

So if it had power your saying it is the clutch assembly? im assuming it replaceable and u don't have to replace the entire compressor?

 

Am i testing the ohm's to ground?

 

You are testing ohms from the red wire that feeds into the clutch coil to that phillips head bolt in the picture.

 

ok, this is a v6. the bolt is an 8mm hex head. i tested it and get 0. the clutch and pully both spin with the a/c on and off????

 

and that red wire looks worse then it really is

 

Does your compressor have a two-pin connector going to it?

 

1 pin that is attached to the fan shroud

 

I was giving you test from the 4-cylinder. The V6 is a completely different setup.

In your first picture, you want to pull that black part to the right of the red wire out of the clamp and unplug it.

Check for continuity (aka closed circuit, zero resistance) from the 1-pin connector in your second picture to the female part of the red wire that you just unplugged.

For the coil resistance, test from the male part that fed into that wire to ground. See new pic. The resistance on the V6 is 3.2 +/- 0.15