I've been getting the codes P1361/P1362 every several months. These are related to the crankshaft position/TDC sensor behind the crankshaft pulley. I reset them with a code reader and all is fine for several months. Then either returns. There is no problem driving the car, but occasional difficulty starting the car. Yesterday P0335 appeared (also related to the crankshaft position sensor.) This was accompanied by poor acceleration. I reset the code and all has been fine so far. I have checked both connectors under the engine that carry these signals and they seem fine. Just for good measure I unplugged and plugged them back.

How likely is it that the sensors are actually bad? I don't mind replacing them since I have a timing belt replacement due and I'll have to get down there. But the sensors are rather expensive ($200) and I'm wondering if there's some other reason for the codes (other than sensor failure.) I see oil leaking out of the bottom of the lower timing belt cover and wonder if the oil has anything to do with the codes.

I don't see any posts here concerning sensor failure so I'm inclined to think it's not common. My car has 160k miles on the odometer.

-Kofi

 

What's with the hidden links? I don't have a problem with honda-tech, I've been there a fair bit myself. Just wondering why they have to be hidden?

Anyway, if there's much oil all over the sensors, maybe that's something. But built-up dirt that has metal shavings might mess up those magnetic sensors.

 

I'm not sure how all those links ended up in the post. I posted the same question on that forum (honda-tech) and just copied the text and pasted it here. I suppose I should have previewed the post before posting it. I'll see if I can duplicate the post and remove all that nonsense that makes it difficult to read.

I can't actually see oil on the sensor(s) (the lower timing cover is still on) - there's just some oil at the bottom outside of the timing cover. Seems to indicate some oil leaking into the case.

Also, I have tested the sensor resistances and they are all in the middle of the range (~2k ohms)

Thanks
Kofi

 

They must put some embedded stuff in there after you write your post. Probably some kind of in-text advertising. No sweat. I edited them to make them visible & now you got rid of them.

I'm not sure how oil would interfere with that sensor. Oil at the sensor itself probably won't do anything (oil being non-magnetic). But over time it might degrade the insulation especially where the wire enters the sensor body? When you get the cover off look for that stuff.

It's a magnetic sensor, like ABS wheel sensors. If there's any magnetic dust (seems unlikely) sticking to the sensor that can mess it up. It won't change the resistance across the sensor when the engine's not spinning, but it might make the signal flaky.

Look for loose mounting hardware for the sensors. I don't know if there's much room for adjustment, but check the distance from the sensor tip to the teeth it's reading. Got a shop manual? The proper distance might be given in there.

 

Good comments, Jim. Unless it's very obvious what's going on with it when I remove the crankshaft pulley I will just replace the sensor since I don't want to have to go back in a second time to replace it.

-Kofi

 

Also use a multi-meter to check continuity of the wiring back to the ECU - along with verifying good isolation from ground.
I think you can find the ECU pinouts in a shop manual - look in the DIY section for a sticky thread about on-line manuals.