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I think I am going with the grinder before heating metal that hot while also operating the ***** puller that is severely inhibited by poor clearance from the wheel well. Its just me and the grinder lets me operate one tool at a time. Plus, the grinder will work for sure, There will be certain satisfaction in that even if the shaft needs to go. Now I need to find a grinder. Actually I thing I've got one with the air compressor tools. Maybe I can find a diamond edge spin blade for it that can make some progress.
Thank you!
I think I am going with the grinder before heating metal that hot while also operating the ***** puller that is severely inhibited by poor clearance from the wheel well. Its just me and the grinder lets me operate one tool at a time. Plus, the grinder will work for sure, There will be certain satisfaction in that even if the shaft needs to go. Now I need to find a grinder. Actually I thing I've got one with the air compressor tools. Maybe I can find a diamond edge spin blade for it that can make some progress.
Thank you!
Since you're going to use a die grinder (common name for an air powered grinder), you might want to look in a good hardware store for an arbor and some cutting discs for metal. Harbor Freight would be a good choice for them (both parts). Make sure you use eye protection. I only mention it, as I've gotten crap in my eyes from grinding before.
I appreciate the safety tip - goggles are definitely affordable at harbor freight and I certainly would have overlooked them and regret it. Thanks again, Toecutter and SeanJordan for helping me think this through.
No problem. We've all been there and need another opinion on how to tackle something that should not be as hard as it's being.
Agreed. In reality, that gear should just slide on and off. I know on my 99 it slid right off, so I could install the new key for it and the pulley (shared key).
I GOT IT OFF: Thanks to The Toecutter, Seanjordan20, JimBlake. My plan was to grind it off, now that I gathered a compressor, die grinder, 3" blades, and some 1.5" Dremel diamond wheels, but it was done with a gear puller in the youtube video that succeeded. So I went at the parts store looking to replace the bent gear puller. It was then that I noticed something. The puller had 5/16th bolts, and I specifically remember this guy asking me to provide him 1/4" bolts, which I had, and they broke and ultimately failed. So I decided to tap the gear with the correct size, 5/16 bolts that were part of the $15 package. This required a 5/16 tap that came paired and packaged with the correct drill bit for the job, which should have been an odd 17/64 according to some machinist charts I found online, but this packaged set just referred to the 5/16 with a course 18 threads per inch (not fine thread:24 per inch).so I can't be sure what sized drill bit they included, but it worked for sure. BTW The paired tap and drill bit was a blue package by Century drill and tool, which I found at O'reilly's but not at Autozone. I never did locate a 17/64 bit anywhere else I looked earlier that day. THIS TIME I wound up bending the tapped bolts just about when it seemed to be ready to move. So I went to Ace and bought new pairs of #8 hard yellow tinged steel bolts and washers. To be safe, I bought both the 4 inch pair and the 3.5 inch pair lengths. Tapping by hand with the hand tapper simple basic kit , while in the wheel well is slow going. In fact I broke a tap in the hole when I had really pushed it unnecessarily at such a tough angle. So I drilled and tapped right next to it once I realized that would be easier than getting that broken bit out. It was a slow going deal, but with patience I got that puller set.
The problem was that the "slightly mushroomed" crankshaft end ( JimBlake's correct hunch) had too deep a hole for that puller. I tried duct taping two quarters together and placed on the crank snout, but that could not tolerant of real force, and bent the coins. I remembered that I had an extra bolt that I replaced for the repair, so I just threaded in that old cran bolt (using that grinder to chop it to size) and with that in place I was eventually successful in pulling that sprocket off with that gear puller used with both sets of bolts. The sprocket fought me till the very end of that shaft. In fact, the new crankshaft sprocket, that just slid off (and on) the crank at the junkyard, and exact match, does NOT want to slide on the slightly MUSHROOMED end of that shaft.
The BROKEN WOODRUFF KEY was inspected and it seems to me that compared to the new DEALER key that I paid an obscene price, to be sure, its clear ro me that this guy used some OTHER key that was NOT to spec.. CLOSE but WRONG. The density and size DO matter at 4k rpm,
Anyway, my thought is to see about getting a tap for the Crankshaft snout, just to help out the threading as best I can before using that green locktite. I am not certain yet what will be involved on getting the sprocket and pulley pushed onto that shaft, when the time comes, but before all of that I need to get some more input about what else I should REPLACE in this disassembled timing belt. I imaging that the seal/bearing at the shaft can and or must be replaced. Also, maybe I should replace that belt with less than 10k on it and perhaps tensioner stuff. Then there's a few sensors that were removed and must be reattached...probably pricey new and hard to get to at a yard, but maybe not likely to fail if I just use the original. And while I'm at it, I bet this guy never did the water pump (I can't be certain with his word) and doing it again to be safe can't hurt I guess... My biggest concern (and I'll read the shop manual tonight) is how to get the shaft in the correct position because it did get rotated at some point when he attempted the puller, and I need to ascertain if valves were stressed at all when any rotation happened with out a belt in place.
Well, I'll stop here for now. Below are some more photographs of the process up to this point. Anything you have to say about how to proceed, or any comments or questions comments or tips are welcome. Thanks, again.
I GOT IT OFF: Thanks to The Toecutter, Seanjordan20, JimBlake. My plan was to grind it off, now that I gathered a compressor, die grinder, 3" blades, and some 1.5" Dremel diamond wheels, but it was done with a gear puller in the youtube video that succeeded. So I went at the parts store looking to replace the bent gear puller. It was then that I noticed something. The puller had 5/16th bolts, and I specifically remember this guy asking me to provide him 1/4" bolts, which I had, and they broke and ultimately failed. So I decided to tap the gear with the correct size, 5/16 bolts that were part of the $15 package. This required a 5/16 tap that came paired and packaged with the correct drill bit for the job, which should have been an odd 17/64 according to some machinist charts I found online, but this packaged set just referred to the 5/16 with a course 18 threads per inch (not fine thread:24 per inch).so I can't be sure what sized drill bit they included, but it worked for sure. BTW The paired tap and drill bit was a blue package by Century drill and tool, which I found at O'reilly's but not at Autozone. I never did locate a 17/64 bit anywhere else I looked earlier that day. THIS TIME I wound up bending the tapped bolts just about when it seemed to be ready to move. So I went to Ace and bought new pairs of #8 hard yellow tinged steel bolts and washers. To be safe, I bought both the 4 inch pair and the 3.5 inch pair lengths. Tapping by hand with the hand tapper simple basic kit , while in the wheel well is slow going. In fact I broke a tap in the hole when I had really pushed it unnecessarily at such a tough angle. So I drilled and tapped right next to it once I realized that would be easier than getting that broken bit out. It was a slow going deal, but with patience I got that puller set.
The problem was that the "slightly mushroomed" crankshaft end ( JimBlake's correct hunch) had too deep a hole for that puller. I tried duct taping two quarters together and placed on the crank snout, but that could not tolerant of real force, and bent the coins. I remembered that I had an extra bolt that I replaced for the repair, so I just threaded in that old cran bolt (using that grinder to chop it to size) and with that in place I was eventually successful in pulling that sprocket off with that gear puller used with both sets of bolts. The sprocket fought me till the very end of that shaft. In fact, the new crankshaft sprocket, that just slid off (and on) the crank at the junkyard, and exact match, does NOT want to slide on the slightly MUSHROOMED end of that shaft.
The BROKEN WOODRUFF KEY was inspected and it seems to me that compared to the new DEALER key that I paid an obscene price, to be sure, its clear ro me that this guy used some OTHER key that was NOT to spec.. CLOSE but WRONG. The density and size DO matter at 4k rpm,
Anyway, my thought is to see about getting a tap for the Crankshaft snout, just to help out the threading as best I can before using that green locktite. I am not certain yet what will be involved on getting the sprocket and pulley pushed onto that shaft, when the time comes, but before all of that I need to get some more input about what else I should REPLACE in this disassembled timing belt. I imaging that the seal/bearing at the shaft can and or must be replaced. Also, maybe I should replace that belt with less than 10k on it and perhaps tensioner stuff. Then there's a few sensors that were removed and must be reattached...probably pricey new and hard to get to at a yard, but maybe not likely to fail if I just use the original. And while I'm at it, I bet this guy never did the water pump (I can't be certain with his word) and doing it again to be safe can't hurt I guess... My biggest concern (and I'll read the shop manual tonight) is how to get the shaft in the correct position because it did get rotated at some point when he attempted the puller, and I need to ascertain if valves were stressed at all when any rotation happened with out a belt in place.
Well, I'll stop here for now. Below are some more photographs of the process up to this point. Anything you have to say about how to proceed, or any comments or questions comments or tips are welcome. Thanks, again.
Man, the end of the crank looks rough. I'd try some fine or extra fine crocus cloth on the outside end of the crank to polish it up. If you can see/find the high spots, maybe knock the high spots down with a smooth flat file first, then polish the end until the gear slides on and off. Look in the FSM to see what size they call the bolt out to be (should be in the torque specs). Hopefully it all goes back together for you. Keep in mind, you can't hurt it anymore than the "mechanic" already did. I'd probably re-use the timing belt, but replace everything else you were thinking about replacing. If I remember right, if you have #1 cylinder up, the key way should be straight up for the gear to go on. But, I'd look for a dot or slash mark on the gear, and reference the FSM for the timing mark on the oil pump housing to make sure you're in the right place.
I hope this helps.
Edit: Removed the pages from the 4-cyl manual to avoid confusion.
And the following discussion applies to the 4-cyl engine. I'm not sure how you would do something similar for a V-6 because it depends on firing order.
On the first page, notice the crankshaft sprocket. The timing marks and the key are all at 12oclock. Not sure, but the photos look like your crankshaft is now positioned with the keyway at about 8oclock. Not knowing how the crankshaft or camshaft has been turned during this whole process, you need to avoid any of the valves hitting any pistons.
4-cyl procedure... My recommendation is to turn the crankshaft directly to 9oclock (or 3oclock if I misinterpreted your photos); NEVER turning it through either 12oclock or 6oclock. That will position all 4 pistons at mid-stroke. Then you can spin the camshaft any which way you want without risking the valves hitting any pistons. When the camshaft is positioned properly, then turn the crankshaft directly to the proper timing position & install the belt.
For a V-6 you have to work out a similar process depending on the firing order, especially if your crank is between the TDC points at 4oclock and 8oclock.
If you can start 60-degrees away from #1TDC (rather than 90-degrees away) that's good. If your crank is already between 4oclock & 8oclock, then you have to be careful because moving through either 4oclock or 8oclock will put certain cylinders at TDC. Those are the points where you have to pay attention and feel whether the pistons are hitting any valves that happen to be open.
02-23-2020, 10:44 AM
