using starter fluid, as aid to start dead car = damage motor? not conceivable in my book.

 

They rarely fix themselves...has the temp been warmer in the morning lately? The cost of checking the FITV is almost nothing....plus the idle on cold start only being 1K and not 1.5K ? While checking it, might as well clean the TB and ports to the IAC and FITV.

Resetting the ECU won't hurt anything, be sure to have the radio code if factory.

 

Maybe I am missing some thing first pull the plugs and check the condition are thay black? next do a compresion test. Are you getting good spark? Are the inj. clicking? If it were my car I woukd put in a set of NGK plugs and retest good luck.

 

Well, it's been starting fine for the last week and I thought it resolved itself. Sometimes it would start and jump straight to 1k RPM's and that idle back at 750. Sometimes it will start and be hovering right above 0 RPM's! Like it isn't running at all, but it must be just going REALLY slow idle, like 25 RPM's! But like I said, I don't know how serious it is, once it runs it drives like a mighty steed.

This evening it didn't want to start at all. I had to keep turning the key with my gas pedal on the floor till it finally turned over. When it's moist and damp outside it doesn't want to start. Back in January when it was icy and cold it wouldn't start after a few cranks, so I put some HEET in the gas tank and that seemed to fix it right away. But I don't think that's the same problem I'm having here.

Is there anyway to confirm it's the fast idle valve, I don't really feel comfortable fixing it myself.

 

When the tachometer reads ~0 rpm, is the engine actually idling at low rpm? Or is this something with the gauge?

Lets get all of the information about what you have done so far.

You put in new spark plugs, what brand did you use?

Where did you get the replacement distributor? Was is new? Did it come with the ignition control module (a small black piece with 4 wires plugged into it)? Did it come with a new distributor cap and distributor rotor?

Is the coil the original?

How about the spark plugs wires? What brand are they? How old?

I just want to make sure we are not overlooking something simple.

 

I'm pretty sure it's low RPM's, because it just hangs there, then I press the accelerator, I rev up the engine for a second, and then it makes it way back to the 750RPM idle.

Would it take more than 40 minutes for a shop to clean out my throttle body and replace the FITV? How much would the valve run me?

 

Most of the time...most...the valve (IACV and FITV) just need cleaning or adjustment.

Your comment about the "moisture" makes me want to ask about the dist cap and rotor.....and then most important, the o-ring seal under the cap......more so than the IAC/FITV or tb cleaning......sorry if I missed this earlier.

 

The distributor is brand new, it's the whole entire unit and it's made by rich porter.(A really good one to get, if you need a new one. Although if your dist. is leaking a lot from the outside, just replace the o-ring and put it back on--Learned that the hard way)

Wouldn't a new one come with a new o-ring?

Also new:

1. New OEM Spark NGK plugs(Copper)
2. Spark plug wires, unknown age, in fair condition.

 

You mentioned that you replaced the PCV valve...any chance that you accidently broke the hose or left a hose off? Your symptoms sound a lot like a vacuum leak.

 

just because the distributor is new doesnt make it good. if you have power going in and nothing coming out, (i.e. secondary spark) the distributor is junk.
i put 4 distributors in my 91 accord in 4 years.
they eat them.
unlikely its a fuel issue, as for a vacuum leak, it should still start but run like ***