My daughter was driving the car and it it started to hesitate it then died and the car now will not start. Check engine light came on with a P1382.

I checked for spark and I'm not getting anything out of the ignition coil. I checked the connector and with key on, I do have voltage on one of the pins so I assume that is good.

I did change out the coil thinking that was my issue but I still have no spark. I check with pulling the wire going to the distributer and checked for spark which I did not get any. If I had grounded to a bolt would I not see a spark? Also checked via a spark plug wire via a timing light and did not get anything while trying to crank the motor over.

Thanks,

Dannyo

 

P1382 = no signal from the CYP sensor.

I think that sensor is inside the distributor. Look for dirty/loose/corroded connections to the wiring harness. Then look for loose wire connections inside the distributor.

Red dust inside the distributor? That indicates a failing bushing for the distributor shaft. The dust can interfere with those magnetic sensors.

 

Is this accord a 4 or 6 cylinder? Is it an lx, dx, or ex?

 

4 cylinder and is a DX model.

Wiring harness is fine. I ohmed the harness to the sensor and results were 80 ohms. Don't know for sure if that's ok, but at least verifies the harness.

But that should not prevent getting spark from the coil correct?

TIA!

Dannyo

 

Well it seems the timing belt broke. should have known better as it did not sound like the motor had any compression when turning over.

So now my question, what are the chances valve damage may have occurred? Is it worth trying to change out the timing belt without checking the valves?

Not even sure if it's worth it on this car.

Your thoughts?

Dannyo

 

I'd say 70-30......choice is up to you from here.

Me, of course I'm poor, I'd fix it myself. Re-time the engine, then do a compression test...leaving the covers off so that if the head had to come off...if the head has to come off, send it to a machine shop. Rework everything, stem seals, flatness, ect.....re-install add a water pump, idlers/tensioners and any seals leaking from the front of the engine and go.

A bit of regular maint...a small amount of luck and these 5th gens will go for a long time. My 95 is at 378K.

Again, my two cents.

 

Here's a quickie check you don't have to buy a new timing belt.

Remove the shredded timing belt so you can turn the crankshaft & camshaft separately.

Find the timing marks on the crankshaft pulley. Turn the crankshaft DIRECTLY to a point 90-degrees away from the pointer. Doesn't matter if you turn it forwards or backwards. Doesn't matter which 90-degree point you pick, before or after TDC. DO NOT turn it through TDC. DO NOT turn it through 180-degrees from TDC.
- This will put all 4 pistons at mid-stroke without any pistons going all the way to the top.

Now with all 4 pistons at mid-stroke, you can turn the camshaft any which way you want without worrying about hitting the pistons.

Now by turning ONLY the camshaft, go through the motions of adjusting the valve clearances. If any of them are WAY WAY large, that's a bent valve.

With bent valves, your repair cost (or effort) goes way up, so you can decide whether to buy a replacement engine.

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If all the clearances are OK, then you can try to do a modified leak-down test.

Figure out a way to LOCK the crankshaft in this 90-degrees position. When you pressurize any of the cylinders, the crankshaft will try to turn so you have to prevent that.

Again, by rotating the camshaft only, you can close all 4 valves on any given cylinder. Find a leakdown-kit which is basically a fitting to put compressed air into a sparkplug hole.

With the crankshaft locked, apply air to each cylinder when the valves are closed. Listen for air leaking out, into the intake or exhaust manifolds.