I was given a 1997 Honda Accord SE about a month ago by my fiancee Sister. This was her old car and was no longer using it anymore. She had bought it pre owned by the original owner as well. This is my first Accord and i love this year and type of car so i want to put some real TLC into it. Anyways

So i got the car about a month ago and right before i got it. The timing belt and waterpump was changed by a friend. So im good on those things.

Im about to hit 220,000 miles any day now and want to know what i need to do for a full tune up. The only paperwork i found in the car was from 2004 with a tune up and the car had 136k. From what i know the car hasn't been tuned up since then only the basics oil change/rotate tires. The car seems to run almost perfect. however the radiator isnt working properly. So i need to replace that as well i think (The car seems like it is getting to hot at times)

The car also has 17in rims on it and i just got all 4 tires replaced a few weeks ago (Pilot Sport A/S Plus Michelin)

I really want to start Moding this car as well. but I want to get all the basics done first so that i can get this car running it tip top shape. It needs a serious paint job too (The clear cote has been coming off and makes it look ugly) I want to fix up the engine first before i get it painted.

I have about $1800 at the moment i want to put into the car. Ill have more later too but i really want to start getting this thing into better shape.

I would like to get the best stuff Spark Plugs, Wires, Distributor Cap, Radiator, Filters, Fluids Etc Etc

Everything but the rims is stock that i know of

also as far as a radiator what would be the best thing for me to get? OEM, Kayo, mishimoto? There is no mods yet but there will be a lot eventually (Hopefully)

I live in California if that makes a difference so its never really to cold or to hot. the coldest it has been in my city is 32 Degrees up to 105 Degrees but that's pushing it on both hot and cold usually around 60-70 Degrees almost all year.

I do want to use this car to travel to other states as well and dont want it to break down on me in the middle of no where either.

If i forgot to ask anything that might be useful to me please let me know.

Also if someone can check the carfax for me that would be great so i can get a more detailed information on the cars history

VIN: (PM If You Can Help) Vehicle: 1997 HONDA ACCORD SE

Sorry if i wrote to much i just Didnt want to leave anything out.

I plan to do the tune up myself as well.

 

First, not sure if you want the VIN of your car in the open......

Two or three of your questions I'd like to learn more or answer.

What is up with the rad...is it leaking or does it try to over heat every now and then? please give more details, unless it it just leaking...if leaking, call/search around for the best price on a new one..

Tune up, some will suggest Honda OE cap, rotor and wires....I use aftermarket so won't touch that debate. However I think we all agree on NGK spark plugs.

Is this a stick or auto...either way the trans fluid is something that should be considered...if an auto, use Honda Z1.

EDIT: I did not post on the "other thread" you posted somewhere else.......you've been a member there since Feb 2009 and this is your first Honda, yes you say Accord. They are not all that different.

 

For a tuneup, you want to change the distributor cap and distributor rotor (buy from dealership). Change spark plugs and air filter. Get these from a parts store. Get the NGK V-power spark plugs recommended in the owners manual. Inspect spark plug wires for cracks in the rubber insulation. Replace with dealership parts. The Honda wires last forever.

Probably want to change the oil and oil filter use 5w-30.

Change the transmission fluid. I use Honda ATF from the dealership. Do not get the transmission flushed. You can only drain 1/3 of the fluid out, so drain fluid, refill with fresh fluid (~3qts) drive for at least 15 min. You may even want to drive for a week. Drain, refill two more times (so you have added 9qts total). That will exchange most of the fluid out.

For the radiator, I would diagnose first. What is wrong with it? Start the car and turn on the a/c. See if both fans run for the radiator. Also find out if the coolant was changed when the TB was replaced. Inspect the metal fins of the radiator to see if they are degrading.

You can also clean the EGR ports. That is a common problem on these cars. There is a DIY writeup on this in the DIY answers by Hondadude. I am sure there are YouTube videos on this as well.

 

Didn't realize the same people are on all forums. Good to know

The rad I dnt see it leaking but whenever idle or in traffic it goes half way between the middle and the hot mark. Also the car engine sounds like it's on for atleast 10 min after the ignition is turned off so I just figured I needed a new one. The hoses However seem old and flimsy super weak

The car is auotomatic

I just bought oil today and filters
Bought royal purple 5w30 N royal purple filter

Also I was looking at the NGk premium sparkplugs n wires

WhAt other stuff is needed brands etc

I really want to get the best stuff that isn't a rip off

I will get the distributor and rotor from dealer.

Transmision I will get that too

 

When the engine is cold, remove the radiator cap and check that the coolant is filled to the top. If it is not, keep checking it. I used an aftermarket radiator. The Honda one was way too expensive.

Also check the fans like I mentioned using the a/c. See if the fans turn on when your temperature fluctuates at a stop. Also find the noise that is coming from your engine when you turn the car off. I'm guessing that it will be a fan that is cooling down the engine.

Also, use these spark plugs: NGK ZFR5F-11. They run ~$8 at the parts store. They get replaced every two years or 24K miles. A member that is a technician would advise people not to use the expensive iridium or platinum tips due to problems when starting cold. Really the cost is about the same for iridium @120K miles, vs copper@24K milesx5. You just have to change the copper ones every two years.

 

hey, we're all the same...no worries. PLEASE don't take my comment the wrong way.

Sounds like the rad issue is more in line with low coolant or a cooling fan issue. Does the ac work, if so turn it on...do BOTH fans run?

EDIT: was slow at the wheel..PA already asked about the fans in his first post, spaced again...so my question was already asked....too late in the day for me. be back tm

 

For the Spart Plugs Ordered the NGK ones and For the Wires I was thinking of getting these http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/product...sets/index.asp
Should I get OEM instead? i kind of like the way those look


A little confused. So basically im going to drain 3 quarts at a time and after i drained 3 i put 3 fresh quarts in? Seems like the new is just going to mix in with the dirty. Also am i only adding 3 quarts per week or per 15min? if it was per week does that mean it will take me 3 weeks to change the whole thing? i mean since i have to do 3 each time. Also does it have to be drained exactly 3 quarts? like should i measure it or something?

also this is the right product for ATF
http://www.hondapartsdeals.com/produ...on-fluid-atfz1


I have to check the fans tomorrow during the day. I do know that the A/C works but it seems like im always filling up the Coolant. My GF was ussing this car before me for about a year and we were always refilling the coolant after not even a thousand miles. it seemed like it was just getting bone dry quickly. I fill up the side white bottle as well and that goes empty. So i dont know if that means there is a leak in the radiator or what. Im just using some cheap green 50/50 from random autoparts store.

Im thinking i should switch to the Honda Antifreeze/Coolant Type 2
http://www.hondapartsdeals.com/produ...ntenance-parts

I live in an apartment and im always parking in a different space so not sure if the radiator is leaking or why it isnt lasting me that long.

I will check the fans in the morning sometime though




So when i take off the cap when the radiator is cold do i leave the cap off as the car warms up until it eventually goes up? or just check it each time its cold. whenever i check it when its cold it never really goes up and i end up putting more than a quart just to get it to the top. this is like every 2-3 months.



The AC works just doesnt seem like it works the greatest. The heater works too. also at times when i do use the A/C or when its raining or if im in traddic the



also what about a Thermostat which one of those is good to get?
was thinking about getting this one
http://www.mishimoto.com/honda-accor...tat-90-99.html


also i was told i need to get new brakes and a new battery that the battery was not good during testing.

Im planning to get the optima Yellow Top cause im going to put a system in the car as well.

As far as brakes go what exactly do i need for that when im told i need new brakes. sorry this is probably a newb question.

 

NGK plug wires are good. I think factory wires are better, but $$. Price vs. lifespan is probably an even trade & nothing wrong with cool looks.

For the ATF, your link IS the right stuff. The torque converter can't drain, so it's only possible to drain about 1/3 of the total fluid. YES, it mixes with the dirty stuff. But Honda autoboxes don't like to be "power-flushed".

I've used other anti-freeze. Current formula Prestone green is non-silicate as required. Look for that on the label. The differences between anti-freeze are in the anti-corrosion packages which sometimes don't play nicely together. If you rinse thoroughly before refilling, you'll be OK. Hybrid-OAT formulas play nicely with most others, Dex-cool seems to be the bad actor for mixing with others.

I wouldn't use a racing thermostat unless you're racing. On the street you don't want it to run colder than it's supposed to. (Unless you want to buy more gasoline) Dealer T-stat would be real good.

"Need brakes" probably means your brake pads are wearing down thin. New rotors vs resurfacing your existing rotors depends on 2 things.
- enough thickness above minimum allowable?
- cost of resurfacing vs. cost of new rotors?

 

I had those NGKs on my car. They are good plug wires.

See Jim's post above about ATF. The drive interval is up to you. I would say 15 min is minimum to drive to ensure the old/new fluid will mix. The once a week for 3 weeks suggestion was to break up the process, so it is not one long process.

The radiator should be filled to the top when cold. When the fluid heats up, the overflow bottle catches the expanded fluid. When the radiator cools, the radiator will draw in fluid from the overflow bottle.

You should get the cooling system pressure tested. I would get the dealership thermostat. You will have less headaches, because the thermostat will open fully at the correct temperature. Better fuel economy, etc like Jim said.

Front brake rotors on that vintage accord are a pain to change out. If the car does not vibrate, I would just change out the brake pads. If they are vibrating, then there are couple of options to discuss. The back pads/rotors are not too bad to do. You didn't mention which pads were the problem.

 

After you change ATF enough to make it clean, the best thing is to establish an interval (25k or 30k miles??) so it doesn't get very dirty. Then just change it once at that interval.

Even if the front brakes don't vibrate, you should at least measure their thickness to compare against the minimum.