I went to change oil yesterday. The oil they put is 5w30, which is standard I guess.
Before the oil change, there was some noise from the drive belts(sounded like from that section of the engine compartment). After the oil change, the sound went away and the engine is(was) running very smooth. The people at the shop said that, there may have been too less oil so, it is not unusual for belts to make noise when there is less oil. I take it.

Then I drove about 30 miles, with many turn engine offs and ons for grocery and everything.

Later at night, I went to get gas and after getting full tank of gas, the car started and immediately died. Tried a lot to start, almost half an hour but no luck.

Tried jump starting with another car, no luck. So I left the car in the gas station. I hope its not towed yet. I have to get it checked today, have to get it towed to a shop. I dont want to go to a dealer and get outrageous bills.

When I try to turn on the engine, it cranks up but doesnt start. I can see the drive belts spinning when trying to start. All the lights are working, brakes, ac/heat, windows everything. So it cant be the battery. And I tried to jump it too.

What would be the possible cause. I have been reading since yesterday night about it and so many people have pointed towards main relay, fuel pump or plugs.

I dont have a garage and this snow is not helping either.
If anyone could possibly point me in the right direction, so that I know what I am talking about with the mechanic and he doesnt try to rip me off.
I am new to this place and do not know any mechanics.
HELP

 

First you should figure out if it's lack of spark vs. lack of fuel.

Got a timing light? That's the best way to check for spark.

Check for fuel. Turn the key ON but not immediately to START. Listen for the fuel pump to run for 2 seconds then stop.

Let us know what you observe.

 

All the lights on the dash come on, in ON position.
I am not sure what/ how to check the timing light.
I noticed, oil light blinking while trying to start and then it stays constantly ON. Infact all the lights including the battery stays on. But only when trying to start, the oil light blinks. I changed the oil yesterday, havent checked the oil level though. It was snowing so, I had to leave the car there at the gas station.
I am going to check on it after a few hours taking half day off work, and may be get it towed if it doesnt start.

 

Definitely check the oil level on the dipstick.

To use a timing light to check for spark, just hook up the timing light a spark plug wire and try to start the car. The timing light should flash. Do that on each spark plug wire to verify that you have a good spark.

Are your other maintenance items up to date like the spark plugs, distributor cap, and rotor?

A quick check for the fuel pump is to turn the key to the II position, then listen for the fuel pump to turn on for about two seconds when the check engine light turns on. It is a faint buzzing/whirling sound that comes from the back seat so listen carefully.

I would also check for engine/transmission codes. There is a DIY on how to get CEL codes. Follow the instructions for the 94-95, because your car has that connector.

 

Thankfully, I was able to start the car and drive it to my apartment. But it stopped again infront of the apartment. I had to push it to the parking lot. Atleast I am relieved that it wont get towed or stolen from the gas station though.

I checked the oil level, it is good.

I can hear the fuel pump when I turn the key to II position, the sound does stop after a couple of seconds.

I checked the spark plugs, it was all dirty.

I changed all 6 spark plugs and all the spark plug cables today. Still it doesnt want to start.
Havent checked the spark light though. I do not have a timing light equipment and forgot to get it when I went to autozone to get the plugs and cables.

I havent checked the distributor and distributor cap yet. Its dark and cold out there, so I gave up today.

What would make it not start yesterday and start today at once, and die again after like 3 miles?

I am really amused. But at least its in the parking lot now. So if needed I can get it towed to a shop to get it looked at over the weekend.

Till then I will keep on researching what would cause it.

For the CEL codes, does the car/engine need to be running?
I get home pretty late from work and it gets dark really early these days, so I will have to wait till the weekend.

 

The car does not need to be running to check for codes. Just short the connector shown the DIY writeup, then turn the key to the II position without trying to start the car.

It is hard to say what your problem is. Check for codes first. Let us know what you find. It only takes 5-10 minutes to do.

The next step is to determine if your problem is due to lack of spark or lack of fuel. The timing light is the quickest way and probably the most definitive way to test for spark. You can use an old spark plug to check for spark. Check out the tegger site mentioned in the sticky of the gen tech help forum. The problem is that you can be fooled into thinking you have a good spark, but the spark is very weak under engine compression.

You may also want to get a volt meter.

You already verified that the fuel pump is getting power. It doesn't completely rule out fuel. You can try starting fluid to see if your car starts up while you spray it into the throttle body.

 

Just before coming to work today I just went and started the car, it started fine in first try.
But I didnt have time to keep it running so I turned it off and headed for work.
The problem is really strange, it starts after a day. I was not brave enough to try to drive it to work because it might stop in the freeway and leave me stranded again.

I will check the codes whenever I get time. I have already trashed the old spark plugs. So I guess I will keep the new ones in.
The check engine light has been steady ON since the day I got the car, previous owner mentioned about changing oil pan, but the service stations never told me anything about the oil pan. Neither the honda dealer nor the big O tires.
Dealer wanted $175 just for diagnosis of the CEL. I will do it myself when I get time by this weekend.
Today if possible I will get someone to look into it. But I doubt its going to easy to pin point the cause of this issue.

 

I will try to read the codes tonight.
I am confused though.
I know the OBD II is behind the ashtray. I see that in my car.
But I read that 96-97 models have another Service Check Connector (SCS).
I have 97 V6 lx, I am not sure whether to use the SCS connector or the OBD II connector.
I know for OBD II connector I have to jump the ports 8 and 13.
Please advice and correct me if I am wrong.
Thanks

 

Sorry to ask this question here, but I am not getting answers in the General Tech section or anywhere.
I am having the same/similar problem in my 97 accord lx v6 AT.
I took it for an oil change, drove around for around 30 miles. Later in the evening, went to fill the gas, full tank. I start the car and the car died immediately, Like I drove 4 yards and then the engine just stopped without any hic ups. Tried to jump start with the help of other cars, no good. Shook the car to see if the fuel pump was getting clogged, no good. I had to leave the car at the gas station overnight, by pushing it to the parking lot.
Next day I go and try to start, the car starts in the first try. Drove around 3 miles to my apartment and it died in the middle of the road same as the previous day at the gas station.
I had to push it to the parking lot in the apartment complex. Then It wont start at all.

The engine tries to start, I mean when I turn the key to START position, the car cranks and tries to start. I see the drive belts for power steering and everything moving. But it doesnt start.

I can hear the fuel pump for 2 secs on key position ON.
I changed all 6 spark plugs and the spark plug cables with new ones from autozone to make sure that the spark plugs are not the issue.
Still No good.
I have already spent on new spark plug and wires, but they were due anyway.

Next morning(yesterday) I go and try to start the car, it starts on the first try. I didnt drive it because I dont know where it is going to stop and leave me stranded.
Today again I tried to start in the morning, and it started, but I took the bus. Cant trust it right now.

Does it sound like main relay issue or something else? I have read so many posts on this issue, all seem to point to main relay, but I am in Colorado, and the weather is pretty cold now and all the posts point the main relay malfunction is caused by heat. Does the main relay solder joints go crazy even in cold?

I have to get the car towed to shop to get it diagnosed, so if it sounds like main relay to all the experts then I would like to replace it and try first before getting it towed to check the CEL codes. I am a student, so I would like to spend less money. If it sounds like main relay issue then I should be able to replace it provided that its snap on rather than spending the same/similar amount to get it towed to a shop and get screwed there. I have been advised to get a timing light to check the spark, but I do not have the car running to go to the autozone and rent the tool(if they allow it).


Once I get it running, I can go to autozone and check the CEL codes.

I am tired of walking to bus station and waiting for bus in this cold weather, I really need the car to be fixed, specially in winter.


Note: The check engine light has been constantly ON since I purchased it. So havent checked the codes.

Questions I have:
1) Does it sound like main relay issue? if it does Where is the main relay in 97 v6?

2) Where is the SCS connector in 97 V6? I read different things in different places, some say its behind the ashtray(I know there is ODB II connector there) and some say its near the internal Fuse box and some say its under the glove box.
I do not know which pins to short on the OBD II to get the CEL codes. I have read pins 8 and 13, but I have also read not to do it in 96-97 v6 since there is a SCS connector you can short.
Which one to use OBD II connector or SCS(if there is any)?
There are tons of instructions for every other model but the 96-97 v6.

I am asking this because I get home late and I dont have a garage, I have to work in the dark cold parking lot, so if i could get definitive directions then I can at least try and search in that location.


Thanks in advance.

 

Where is SCS connector in 97 V6 model?
I have read not to use OBD II port to short the pins in this model so i am skeptical to do it.
Does it sound like main relay issue?
if does then i would like to replace it myself before getting it towed to a shop.
Where is the main relay located in this model and what does it look like?
I have checked that the relay cost around $55 and it costs more to get it towed to a shop. But if the relay fixes the starting issue I can get it to shop to get the CEL diagnosed.
And also autozone or any stores do not give the timing gun for rent, they said they dont have it for rent.
Its $80 to buy. Damn.

HELP.