Wiggling the key didnt help.
I will continue on the General Tech help thread with this issue, dont want to hijack a DIY thread.
Your help and advice are greatly appreciated, please continue your help.

Thanks Jim

 

The V6 has a different setup when compared to the 4-cylinder. The setup is similar to my 95, but not identical. My shop manual has the V6 tests, but not the wiring diagrams.

There should be a yellow, green, and yellow/green wire going to the distributor. You should be able to do this by unplugging the harness and keeping the cap on. The yellow wire on the harness connecting to the distributor should have 12V.

You can also pull off the cap and see if the yel and also the grn wires on the ICM have 12V with the key in the II position. That test is in my shop manual.

 

Thanks PAhonda, I will check it the first thing tomorrow.
I will keep on updating, I am enjoying this learning process although its frustrating.
My neighbors have started thinking I am a mechanic and started asking me questions about their car problems now. Its funny.

 

I checked the voltage on the cables on distibutor harness and the cables inside the distributor cap.
On the harness with the Key on position II, it gives 12.4V on both yellow wires.
Inside the distributor cap, all three cables give 11.8V.

I checked the rotor for any kind of physical damage, seems there is nothing wrong with it and its clean.

I went under the dash and found the security system, at least I think its the security system.

There are too many cables there to be messing around with right now. I had to leave for work, so I didnt disconnect anything.

Here is the picture of the security system thats screwed in to the steering shaft.

I am not sure what is the purpose of that relay which is dangling next to the security system control console. I am attached the picture of the relay as well.



Still not able to figure out what would be causing this car not to start.
Now the car wont start even once, just tries to start, but engine doesnt catch.

 

Just a re-cap. Car would start and run for a few minutes/miles. Now no start.

Cranks over-rules out starting system, most of the time.

Can hear fuel pump run- has gas...died after fill up/top off/adding gas.

Has voltage into dist....what is happening at the plugs.

 

Just pull a plug wire off the dist cap, hold it 1/4" away from the terminal and while someone cranks the car , watch for spark to jump the gap.
Sheesh, no sense paying $80 for a timing light.
When ignition switches get flakey they will usually overheat the solder terminal on the back of the switch, 3 screws to drop off the lower steering column shroud and visually check the solder joints; they should all look the same, not 'frosty or melted off. Also then you can have access to check for voltage to and from the switch.
So far as the flash codes....I think there is a sticky in the DIY forum

 

I do not think its happening because of the security system, because I read that it is just a siren/horn for this model, not an immobilizer. Or am I wrong?
I will stop playing with it, and start looking for the ignition switch. Worst part is I dont have anyone to help me crank the car right now. I will get someone tomorrow to crank the car to to check for the sparks.
And I will try to take the ignition switch out as well.
Thanks for your help guys.

 

Just an update, Got it fixed.
Had to get it towed to a shop.
Diagnosed the Distributor was bad.
Replaced the whole thing.
What a head ache it caused.
Thanks for all your help. I learnt a lot.
And the most important lesson: without the tools, even when you know what wrong, you cant do anything.
I hope it doesnt give me more headaches in this cold.