I have a 97 Accord 2.2l automatic w/ 320k miles that will not start when its below 39 degrees outside. The battery has a full charge and I can hear the fuel pump come on, also have spark. After cranking for some time it will fire and sputter almost like an old car dieseling, then die with a chug sound. I can do this several times and then it will fire up normal and blow out lots of smoke and unburned fuel. When its very cold, below freezing it will not fire at all, and when pushed into a warm garage and left for a few hours to warm up it will start normal. No codes and I have cleaned the ERG valve and EGR ports. CAP Rotor and plugs, wires are new. I have searched several forums and see this is a problem but no remedy has been posted that I can find. Several mentioned that main relay or ECU could be to blame. Does anyone have an idea what this issue maybe, Thanks in advance I really appreciate the input.

 

You could maybe try some Heet gas line antifreeze and get the battery's CCA checked.

 

I wonder if that is an issue with one of the temp sensors for the fuel system or the wiring or connectors for the same.

 

When you attempt to start, first try turning keyswitch On/off several times waiting until fuel pump cuts off before going off/on repeat to insure adequate fuel pressure and then attempt to start immediately. If low fuel pressure is problem this may help. If this helps, fuel pressure may be marginal; restricted fuel filter or inlet fuel screen blockage.

Alternatively, try starting w/ throttle wide open. If a fuel injector is leaking excessive amounts of fuel, this will allow fuel to clear and enable a start.

An obd2 scanner w/ capability to monitor system inputs may be helpful to indentify marginal sensor performance; not enough to set a code, but enough to cause a starting problem.

good luck

 

• Have your battery tested, full charge does not mean that it is putting out the full cold cranking amps (CCA). Just out of curiosity what CCA is your battery rated for and how old is it?

• If it is not the battery and you do have access to an OBD scan tool. You should check the Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) output at the suspect temperatures. You could have an engine coolant temp sensor that has gone south and not reading that range.

 

Long shot, but what brand & part number on the plugs?

 

As in cold weather it needs a richer mixture you could try spraying some fuel in cold weather into the throttle plate. If it starts you then have to determine if it is low fuel pressure at the fuel rail or mixture as in a temp sensor issue.

 

You need an ECU - this month an ECU swap fixed my problem in ten minutes.


After years of headaches and expense cold days still left me stranded.


I have had this problem for several years - and replaced all the usual stuff as you have. My no start was very specific - at under 32 degrees it would sputter once then lose ignition, flood and burn out the starter motor if you kept trying. There were no MIL or codes for guidance. Once the sun came out and temp rose to about 35 degrees it would start normally. I have used a KD portable ignition tool to start the car, run it for a couple of minutes, then start it normally. Dealer never could fix it, just threw parts at it. All the Sensors, solenoids O2S, Distributor, fuel injectors, etc, etc.

This month it started to throw a MIL and a speed sensor code, then a Vapor pressure code. Since ECU's are now available cheaply I figured that it was time to try an ECU switch. EBay came to the rescue - I found an exact ECU number from "SaltyFlats" for $42.50! He was a great tech rep for me.


Just pull back the carpet and remove 4 screws to access the ECU - write down the numbers . Order your exact code - Mine was a POJ-L52. A different one may run the car, but will throw a MIL ( that's why I now have 3 ECUs in my garage!)


Hope this helps!

 

Looks like 3rd ECU was the charm for you eh! Yeah lets just keep throwing parts at a car and throw proper diagnosis and test procedures out the window.

if your car runs properly above a certain temperature one would only assume there is an issue with a temperature controlled system in your car.

I'm not saying that it can't be the ECU, All I am saying is there are a few tests and tools you can use to monitor the ECU before you go replacing it. Throwing parts at an issue is not the correct way to fix a PGM-FI controlled system. CEL or no CEL.

If all your dealer did was throw parts at it. I would suggest that you never take your car back there again. Ether they have no real qualified techs or they saw you coming and figured they could soak you for a few bucks in labour and parts.

 

Use dry gas if you haven't already done so. Keep a full tank og gas too. It sounds as if you have a high water mixture in your gas tank and in the cold the water is freezing. Just a thought.