97 Accord wont start below 39 degrees?
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 2
ECU's
Looks like 3rd ECU was the charm for you eh! Yeah lets just keep throwing parts at a car and throw proper diagnosis and test procedures out the window.
if your car runs properly above a certain temperature one would only assume there is an issue with a temperature controlled system in your car.
I'm not saying that it can't be the ECU, All I am saying is there are a few tests and tools you can use to monitor the ECU before you go replacing it. Throwing parts at an issue is not the correct way to fix a PGM-FI controlled system. CEL or no CEL.
If all your dealer did was throw parts at it. I would suggest that you never take your car back there again. Ether they have no real qualified techs or they saw you coming and figured they could soak you for a few bucks in labour and parts.
if your car runs properly above a certain temperature one would only assume there is an issue with a temperature controlled system in your car.
I'm not saying that it can't be the ECU, All I am saying is there are a few tests and tools you can use to monitor the ECU before you go replacing it. Throwing parts at an issue is not the correct way to fix a PGM-FI controlled system. CEL or no CEL.
If all your dealer did was throw parts at it. I would suggest that you never take your car back there again. Ether they have no real qualified techs or they saw you coming and figured they could soak you for a few bucks in labour and parts.
The first ECU started my car fine in cold weather, but an exact number part came in so that was installed. This leaves me with my original which works fine if temperature is above freezing. My experience so far over 6 years and three Tows to a dealer was $2,800 for the usual no start solutions - all the temperature sensors, distributor, plugs, O2 sensors, main relay, fuel filter, fuses etc. A lot of labor, weeks of nasty work. Compare that to $50 for a matching ECU and ten minutes of work.
It was 15 degrees this AM and the old girl started just fine!
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 2
Thank you for all the great information. I am happy to say the starting issue has been resolved. It was the ECU and it was a very easy 30 minute swap. Thank you Gotglasses! I contacted the person you recommended on Ebay and received the ECU over the holidays. Very nice to have confidence in my Honda again. Thanks again to everyone.
Been Around A Long Time Member
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 1,008
From: Denver
My no start was very specific - at under 32 degrees it would sputter once then lose ignition, flood and burn out the starter motor if you kept trying. There were no MIL or codes for guidance. Once the sun came out and temp rose to about 35 degrees it would start normally... Dealer never could fix it, just threw parts at it. All the Sensors, solenoids O2S, Distributor, fuel injectors, etc, etc.
Thanks for posting the results, and thanks Gotglasses for revealing the fix. I guess even dealer techs resort to shotgunning parts when faced with a mystery.
Super Moderator : And A Texan
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 9,652
From: Katy, TX
For years I thought 94-97 ECM's were bullet proof, but in last 3-4 yrs we've seen regular faults.
I've had two failures of ECM in my 94EX. I tried to trace fault path (open) on removed board, but could only determine it appeared to be a failure on a small board attached to primary board. Tiny size of circuits and solder jts, combined w/ urethane clear coating make repair difficult.
There are shops that will repair a returned module.
good luck
I've had two failures of ECM in my 94EX. I tried to trace fault path (open) on removed board, but could only determine it appeared to be a failure on a small board attached to primary board. Tiny size of circuits and solder jts, combined w/ urethane clear coating make repair difficult.
There are shops that will repair a returned module.
good luck
Been Around A Long Time Member
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 1,008
From: Denver
I just reflowed the SMD components and resoldered the thru-hole components on my M3 SRS module, which fails with an "internal failure of SRS module". It didn't fix the problem but I found that non-chlorinated brake cleaner works pretty well to get the conformal coating off. Not real aggressive so it required quite a bit of scrubbing with a plastic brush, but it did eventually get the PCB clean enough to solder.
The M3 board is a wagon-only module and really hard to find so I figured I'd give it a shot. It didn't fix the problem; the SRS light still comes on in cold weather, but the reflow didn't seem to hurt it either.
The M3 board is a wagon-only module and really hard to find so I figured I'd give it a shot. It didn't fix the problem; the SRS light still comes on in cold weather, but the reflow didn't seem to hurt it either.
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 43
For years I thought 94-97 ECM's were bullet proof, but in last 3-4 yrs we've seen regular faults.
I've had two failures of ECM in my 94EX. I tried to trace fault path (open) on removed board, but could only determine it appeared to be a failure on a small board attached to primary board. Tiny size of circuits and solder jts, combined w/ urethane clear coating make repair difficult.
There are shops that will repair a returned module.
good luck
I've had two failures of ECM in my 94EX. I tried to trace fault path (open) on removed board, but could only determine it appeared to be a failure on a small board attached to primary board. Tiny size of circuits and solder jts, combined w/ urethane clear coating make repair difficult.
There are shops that will repair a returned module.
good luck
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