From your description (fan ran w/ jumper but was drawing high current), the radiator fan is pulling too much Amps. Did fuse blow during this jumper test? A dragging fan blade might cause this problem.

This problem may be an internal radiator fan motor fault. Only way to isolate the load is to measure amperage, but it must be over 20A if it's blowing fuses.

good luck

 

Temp Gauge inside the car hasn't shown anything abnormal, at any point.


When I jumped the relay, the fuse did NOT blow, but that jumper was starting to glow super bright.

 

Either jumper was too small for load or there is a heavy load from fan motor. Amp gauge of some type necessary to confirm, or simply replace radiator fan motor or assy.

good luck

 

I'm with TX, the motor is pulling too much.

I'm thinking you jumped power from the other power side....not the fused side. Car off and fuse in. Find the power sides of the relay pins. Remove the fuse and verify which pin now has no power. This is the pin you want to jump from. Install fuse and retest. I'll bet a cup of coffee that the fuse blows.

 

A bad fan motor can spin up running off the battery. In another car I owned the fan blades circular surrounding contacted the housing stopping it. I took two wires and hit it with juice from the battery, and the fan started spinning while breaking itself up.

 

Okay, at your suggestion, I went back to double checking the fan, I plugged the condenser fan into the Radiator fan plug, and plugged the radiator fan back into the coolant fan's plug.

(Basically, I took the fans off, and switched them)

This time, the Radiator fan blew, but the Condenser fan ran fine.
This told me for sure, it was definitely the Radiator Fan. I'm not sure why it didn't blow the first time I tried it.

Either way, I swapped out the Radiator fan motor, and Tada! Problem solved!

Good call guys!

 

Worn brushes on fan motor can cause intermittent run. If it quits again, replace it.

good luck