Hi! Did you see the same part I checked, the Dorman part # 901-600? Click here.

By clicking on the picture of the part (the most left picture), you can see there are two holes on the two corners on the back of the part. They are totally different from the OE part screw holes. See the OE part picture in my last message. I do not know why the Dorman claims the part fits the Honda Accord Sedan & Wagon 1997-94.

 

Well, I find it hard to believe they sell something that doesn't fit?

For giggles I guess I could call them and have one shipped and try putting it in my 95??????? EDIT: I just remembered they are coming into town tomorrow, I'll ask them about this.

Again, it may look a bit different than the OE. Even the video online (I think 1a auto) replaces the switch with one that "looks different". Try a junk yard for an OE one if you don't go with the Dorman.

 

There are two different types of master switches for the accords. There is a type A and type B switch. Take a look at an online parts store like majestic honda or hondapartsnow.com com to see what I am talking about.

I think that your best bet is to find one from a junkyard.

 

Hi! Can you help me to identify the OE Part I posted is the type A or type B master switch/the left front switch?

 

 

Yes, I was told today the dorman is not for toyo....and now I see PA has already corrected me......thanks and sorry about that.

EDIT: But now I see even Majestic only offers the one????????

 

Hey! My vehicle master window switch is type B/TREW. Is it correct?

 

Here is what I got from Dorman.....


"Sometimes Honda uses various OE manufacturers for the same model years. There were two different OE style switches that fit these applications. Our switch was made like the TRW style, but it fits both. The bottom cover on the Dorman switch is removable and the third screw hole is under that cover.

Hope this helps.

Thanks,"

 

at legend .org we dont use silicone on the window tracks..we go to honda and get shinitsu greese for the windows....it does wonders for frozen windows,and gunked up tracks...most steelerships dont sell it u have to ask for it..or go to ebay...10 bucks...

 

the reason the one guy said to change the window channel is because he was thinking that the channel was worn out or not lubed which would cause too much resistance for the motor to handle. I have seen many windows that will go down easily with power switches but struggle greatly or fail entirely coming up...because of increased friction in the channel....that being said, I would test the master switch because it is much easier....just do a voltage comparison....test the voltage output on one of the other switches in the master (while lowering a window) and do the same on your suspected bad switch section...if the voltages are the same, then the problem is back at the window itself.