98 Accord 4 Dr EX V6 Cat
#1
98 Accord 4 Dr EX V6 Cat
I have a 98 Accord 4 Dr EX V6 with 245,000 miles. The code 0420 has popped up again and again. I live in Dallas, TX and have so far managed to get it to pass inspection, but am looking to finally put this thing to bed. I have read on this forum that it's 99% to 100% likely to be the cat, but I want to make sure that the cat I'm looking to buy will do the trick. I don't want to spend the money on the OEM if I can get a Magnaflow to work. This is the one I'm looking at:
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sku/Honda/Accord/Magnaflow/Catalytic_Converter/1998/EX/6_Cyl_3-dot-0L/M6627402.html?tlc=Engine+%26+Drivetrain
It says direct stock replacement, do y'all think it will do the trick?
Thanks.
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sku/Honda/Accord/Magnaflow/Catalytic_Converter/1998/EX/6_Cyl_3-dot-0L/M6627402.html?tlc=Engine+%26+Drivetrain
It says direct stock replacement, do y'all think it will do the trick?
Thanks.
#2
Have you thought about the O2, secondary. If the ECU detects a dif between the front and rear O2 that is "out of spec" then it can assume the cat is bad or not working properly. Not sure what else has been done or tested, when the O2 was ever replaced...either way if you do go for the cat, I personally would replace both (pre, post) O2's.
Last edited by poorman212; 01-26-2011 at 08:01 PM. Reason: can't spell...I know
#3
I would agree w/ Poorman. You want to be sure everything in the ignition system and fuel metering system is in good shape before replacing the catalytic converter. New plugs and air filter for sure. If O2 sensor is over 10 yrs, I would replace. Check ebay for good prices on O2 sensor.
If you decide that converter is bad, then I would go w/ a "bolt on replacement". The cheaper converters all have be welded in place and cost will go up w/ labor/facility for that work. Problem w/ a welded converter is the welds are especially sensitive to corrosion. You can diy a bolt-on converter. Check OEM prices, Eastern Catalytic, etc for bolt-on converters. I would suspect you can find a bolt-on converter for <$250, but I haven't checked.
good luck
If you decide that converter is bad, then I would go w/ a "bolt on replacement". The cheaper converters all have be welded in place and cost will go up w/ labor/facility for that work. Problem w/ a welded converter is the welds are especially sensitive to corrosion. You can diy a bolt-on converter. Check OEM prices, Eastern Catalytic, etc for bolt-on converters. I would suspect you can find a bolt-on converter for <$250, but I haven't checked.
good luck
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