My wife and I recently acquired a 98 Accord EX with a 4banger and auto trans. It's got 133k on it, but with the ranting and raving of my siblings about the incredible longevity of Hondas, I figured that was nothing (especially since my Exploder has 165k and runs like a top). To my annoyance, the CEL was on so I took it to Advance to scan the codes - a P0401 and P0304. A little research said the latter was a misfire on #4, probably from my recent plug change. While the first was an EGR problem. More research and I'm convinced the EGR needs some cleaning. Not BIG deal. But when I took my wife to the hospital today for her broken ankle, I jumped out of the car to get a wheelchair and the car died when I got back it (the irony of it all...). Hmm... Annoying. It reminded me of the other day when I put my foot into the throttle and got a short rag-doll shaking from the motor. Very annoying. Then I went to fill her prescriptions at the store, and the car didn't want to start. It would catch, fire, then idle down and choke to death. With a little coaxing of the skinny pedal, it started and idled fine. But then it started behaving like a 2 year old and threw several temper-tantrums in the 3 miles to and from the store. It would idle down and sputter like it was going to die mid-throttle. THe most annoying thing is when, at around 3000 rpm, it would feel like it's bouncing off the rev limiter and shake around. The shudder is most apparent above 2500 rpm, my guess being the VTEC kicking in and the EGR trying to open but having all of the inert gases diverted to one cylinder. Also, sometimes around part throttle, it hesitates and shakes and won't rev. Any ideas? Here's what I can think of:
1: The EGR system needs to be cleaned and it misbehaving (but that doesn't explain it dying at idle, I don't think...)
2: The ignition coil is fried and the car needs some new spark in it's life
3: A fuel injector issue?
4: Bad cap and rotor (haven't checked yet, but plugs look pretty new
I'm pretty perturbed since we just bought the car and it runs like poo, despite it's amazing rep. The Honda Stealer wants $400 just to clean the EGR. I don't even want to know how much to diagnose and fix the other stuff. Unfortunately, I'm away from all my tools for the next few months and am forced to use a swiss army knife and a small set of sockets instead of my normal barrage of air tools and other toys.
The previous owners supposedly did the 100k maintenance with trans flush, timing belt, etc. Thanks! [:@]

 

#1 - EGR can explain the idle problem. The EGR is supposed to be closed at idle, but maybe it's occasionally sticking open?

 

Thanks for the reply. Sounds like a good synopsis. I was hoping that I wouldn't have to replace the EGR valve since it's been rumored that simply replacing it isn't the remedy, but cleaning is. But it sounds like I may be in for it. Only problem is my impact wrench is a couple thousand miles away and I can't get those danged bolts off the EGR...

 

Sometimes it's the valve, sometimes it's clogged ports. Check over at the DIY forum - I bet there's something over there. I haven't had to do my EGR but I sorta remember someone posting a procedure and/or how to check out the EGR.

 

Thanks for the pointers. I checked the DIY forum, but couldn't find much. I also lied to ya'll - ooops.... The car is a 99, NOT a 98. Sorry 'bout that. Anyhows, the problem persists.

JimBlake - I'm somewhat confused about the procedure for cleaning the EGR in a 99. At first, I thought that I needed to purchase 6 little plugs from the Stealer and drill out the 6 brass ones in the intake manifold. But I guess those are only for the earlier 90's models with the 2.2l??? As far as I can tell, for a 99 you just pull off the EGR valve and clean the crud as best you can with a wire or sorts and a some carb or brake cleaner. Do I lie? Thanks!

 

'98 & '99 are pretty much identical.

I think you're right about 6th-gen ('98-'02) but my EGR never plugged up so I'm just going bythe occasionalthread here. Search function is MIA for the moment, so I don't know what to tell you. I don't have my '98 any more, so ???

 

So I had a small epiphany whilst cursing at the car today. It has now become nearly undriveable because I'm scared to dart out in traffic due to the massive and frequent hesitation (every 30 seconds or so). It is most common between 2 and 3k rpm and WILL NOT REV OVER 3K! When it gets to 3100 rpm, it just bounces around 3k with ZERO acceleration kind of like you hit the rev limiter and sputters, going nowhere. It even killed on me while coasting through a corner (luckily at low speeds). Then sometimes it just won't start (as mentioned above). I finally broke down and bought the tools I need to remove and clean the EGR valve, but my epiphany was this:

FUEL STARVATION....

due to a clogged fuel filter. But, wait a minute. Do these things even have a fuel filter?!? Mysteriously, there aren't any listed in the parts catalogs. Which leads me to believe that the geniuses at Honda decided to put a non-serviceable filter in the tank with the pump. Am a right? I sure hope not... Then *FLASH* - another bolt of light: maybe I have a BAD FUEL PUMP?!? I hate dropping those things and I really don't wanna pony up the cash. How might I check the fuel pump? I know it is supposed buzz/humm for 2 seconds when you turn the key on, and if I had a fuel pressure gauge I could hook it up to the pressure port near the manifold (do Honda's have those like a Yukon?) and see if it holds pressure. But I don't have a gauge. Any other ideas? or am I just swinging in the dark? Tomorrow I will hopefully (cross you fingers X) try to get the EGR valve off and cleaned and see if that helps. But in the mean time, I thought I'd give you Honda Guru's something to munch on. Thanks!

 

4 years ago, I replaced my fuel filter only because I thought it would better than letting it clog and put more work on the fuel pump. Looking back, it wasn't one of my brightest moments, but I figured a $50 filter is cheaper than a $200 fuel pump. Anyway, they can be had separately, and I think it was http://www.manchestermotorsports.com/. They have my year for $43 now.

Nowadays, I've learned to diagnose before replacing parts.

But the real experts here would have to tell you how to measure fuel pressure. I think JimBlake or RTexasF, a while back invented their own pressure gauge that was pretty inovative and cheap. The fuel pump/filter is accessed through the trunk, and the only hard part about it was crawling into the trunk and being all squished 'cuz you can't reach it leaning over the bumper.

 

I agree with you on that one... It just drives me crazy that I can't figure it out, so I thought I'd check in to the possibilities. Thanks for the info on where to find access to the pump - that will save me a knoggen-floggin' later. Unfortunately for me, I'm 2500 miles away from my tools, wrenchead buddies, and trusted mechanics and won't be back till September. It sounds like paranoia, but I really don't trust anybody around here. Back in high school, I had a bronco, and since FORD is an acronym for Found On Road Dead or Fix Or Repair Daily, I learned how to wrench on it from a forum. So hopefully ya'll know your stuff like they did. Any other advice/tips/opinions/idea/suggestions/etc ??

 

Do the easy and simple stuff first.

Drive it to Autozone and see if there are any codes stored on the ECU. Post those codes on here.

Since you just got the car, I would go ahead and do the routine maintenance items first. Spark plugs, distributor cap, rotor, and air filter. Only use the NGK spark plug that are OEM for you accord. Then you will know when those items were changed instead just guessing their condition.

Other easy things to check are the battery cables. Make sure that the connections on all ends of the battery cable are clean and secure.

Also, when dark outside, start up the car and spray a mist of water over the spark plug wires. If you see the spark arching, then change the spark plug wires with OEM or NGK wires.

If those normal wear and tear items don't fix the problem, then you will have to test the fuel pressure (i can tell you how to rig a fuel pressure gauge) and for adequate spark (a timing light is helpful on this one).