i swapped my automatic trans for a standard in my 98 accord, with a 2.3 liter ulev vtec in it and changed the ecu to go with a standard trans also along with the wiring. do i need to change the intake manifold also seeing how they do have different part numbers for the same engine for standard and auto transmissions

 

You are fine with the auto tb.

Can you describe the idle issue?

 

the intake seems to be different some how so im curious if that makes a difference or not. the tp has been changed. but when its sitting there it just revs up and down and never reaches under 1100 rpms as my other ones is fine at 800 .

 

Normal idle is around 750 - the first mark below 1K.

From what you are decribing and the work done recently...be sure that you have bleed the air out of the coolant system properly. Also be sure that all of the vac lines are back on......the poor old PCV valve and hose can cause this so don't leave them off the list.

 

whats the easiest way to bleed the air out of the coolant lines

 

There is a "bleeder valve" - just like you have on the brake system - on the t-stat housing.

Debate here but this is my method, use at your own risk.......Set the heat to max - if you have auto HVAC you will need to turn the car to "On"/Pos II so the mode motor opens the heater control valve. Loosen the bleeder, SLOWLY add coolant until a stredy stream comes out of the bleeder. Close off bleeder, put cap on - ONLY to the first click! Start the car and let it run until the rad fans come on. Remove cap and top off rad and res - the reason for only going to the first click on the cap is so that pressure does not build up when the car is Hot - again use safety.

Once full, install cap all the way. Good to go.

 

2 minor additions...

Starting 1998 the hot-water valve is motor driven on non-auto climate control also. Set the heater to hot-temperature then turn the key to ON so the valve actually opens.

After you think you're done bleeding the air out, check it. When it's cold and the radiator cap is on all the way, squeeze the radiator hoses. If you hear/feel sloshing, then you still have some air. The hoses kinda feel different when they are completely filled with no air.

 

i believe i got it all out, it idles around 1200 which is still a little high for me, but the knock sensor is broke and has a code showing and now the iac is throwing a code also, but if i clear them both the car idles rough again so i have a new knock sensor on the way and gonna change back to the old iac