98 Accord: Stalling, "bogging", chugging.. ideas??
#11
09-29-2010, 06:00 PM
Not sure if it accounts for everything. The CYP sensor works together with the CKP & TDC sensors (at the crankshaft) to time the spark. If the signal is flaky, then I guess the spark timing could be all over the place.
The ULEV ECU is trying to operate within really tight limits to get lower emmissions from what's essentially the same engine. I suppose when it gets unreliable signals about the cylinder position, it can cause all kinds of flaky things. You might want to fix this before chasing your tail on the other stuff.
The transmission might be reacting to the unreliable (unsteady) power delivery?? The idle-control stuff is also trying to learn how to hold a steady idle in spite of unsteady spark timing.
The ULEV ECU is trying to operate within really tight limits to get lower emmissions from what's essentially the same engine. I suppose when it gets unreliable signals about the cylinder position, it can cause all kinds of flaky things. You might want to fix this before chasing your tail on the other stuff.
The transmission might be reacting to the unreliable (unsteady) power delivery?? The idle-control stuff is also trying to learn how to hold a steady idle in spite of unsteady spark timing.
#12
09-29-2010, 06:42 PM
Search for postings by me about setting your BASE idle. Do that including resetting your ECU & re-learning the idle. That's something you can do for free.
After resetting, see if the P1381 code comes back. A distributor is $$$ so I'm reluctant to tell you to buy a new one just to throw parts at it. If P1381 DOES come back, then a new distributor is what I'd do next. I don't know whether the distributor is the same from a non-ULEV engine, so be careful what you buy.
After resetting, see if the P1381 code comes back. A distributor is $$$ so I'm reluctant to tell you to buy a new one just to throw parts at it. If P1381 DOES come back, then a new distributor is what I'd do next. I don't know whether the distributor is the same from a non-ULEV engine, so be careful what you buy.
#13
10-05-2010, 01:24 PM
UPDATE:
This tends to happen MUCH MORE when it is wed outside. High humidity also seems to exasserbate the issue. Any thought?? Thanks in advance.
Also, when I reset my CEL, (by disconnecting battery for 5 mins) my car runs like brand new! UNTIL the CEL (P1381) pops back up....
This tends to happen MUCH MORE when it is wed outside. High humidity also seems to exasserbate the issue. Any thought?? Thanks in advance.
Also, when I reset my CEL, (by disconnecting battery for 5 mins) my car runs like brand new! UNTIL the CEL (P1381) pops back up....
Last edited by byrothapyro; 10-05-2010 at 02:15 PM.
#14
10-05-2010, 04:58 PM
Humidity triggers it? Check the distributor cap & plug wires.
Completely cold engine, complete darkness. Works best at 4am after the car's parked overnight. Open the hood & turn off all the lights. Start the engine & look for arcing. Even a dull blue glow indicates that whatever's glowing has not-so-good insulation.
Spray water from a windex bottle - that makes it a lot more visible.
Completely cold engine, complete darkness. Works best at 4am after the car's parked overnight. Open the hood & turn off all the lights. Start the engine & look for arcing. Even a dull blue glow indicates that whatever's glowing has not-so-good insulation.
Spray water from a windex bottle - that makes it a lot more visible.
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tris320
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