I just bought a 98 EX in fairly good condition, minus a few problems. It as 250k on the chasis, and a few months ago a new engine was swapped in due to the previous engine overheating. The new engine has aprox 150k on it. There are only two issues with the car...

The car won't heat up. When idle or at low speeds, the needle will go slightly above the coldest mark on the temp guage, but will usually drop back down once i get moving. Came to the conclusion it was the thermostat. I replaced the thermostat last night, and noticed this morning it does get warmer, but the needle doesn't come close to the halfway mark on the guage, and it still varies greatly, between the 0 mark, and 1/4 to 3/8ths of the way up the guage. Then again, i've only driven a few miles. I'll check later on a longer trip and see if it changes. Is it possible the sensor may be whack?? Also, i have noticed the engine bay isn't as hot as other cars normally are.

Issue #2: i'm spitting a code. Its the vtec code that pops up from low oil pressure. Its code 1259. Also won't rev past 4k. I'm going to change the oil because it may be low, and if it still persists i'll clean the vtec solenoid screen. What methods are there to clean the actual solenoid itself??

 

The temperature gauge will be between 1/3 and 1/4 on the scale when you are running at normal operating temperature, so that is good. There is a sensor with one wire going to it on the passenger side of the engine block that controls that gauge. Make sure that the electrical connector is clean and not loose. See if that wire is damaged near the electrical connector.

I forget what that code means. Do a quick search for that code on here. Definitely check the oil level. Use something like throttle body cleaner if you attempt to clean.

 

seafoam work for cleaning out the solenoid?? I'll check the wire and make sure its not frayed. Its the one thats connected to the top of the thermostat housing, right??

 

In the common DIY section on top of the gen tech help forum, there is a link to a thread explaining the sensors on the different generation accords.

I think your sensor is one of the two sensors on the engine block below the distributor. It will be the only sensor have one wire going to it. The other sensors should have two wires and do not control the gauge in your car. The one on the thermostat housing has 2 wires going to it and is a switch that turns on the two radiator fans when the coolant gets too hot. That is not the one you need to inspect.

 

For the 1259 code. Change the oil, make sure you have the proper level. Have the code(s) reset, if it comes back then you will need to inspect the vtec system. If you pull the solenoid to check the screen, might as well buy a new one, you can clean it but I'm guessing the o-ring that holds the screen will be hard as a brick.

For the temp. Is the coolant full and no trapped air? When you replaced the t-stat, you bled the system with the heat set to max?

 

Ummm no how do you bleed the coolant system??

Also, i removed the top part of the solenoid, cause its the only part that i could get to. The oring on that seemed almost new. And i have heard of people fixing the problem with just cleaning the screen. Why should i get a new one? They are about 100 dollars from what i've seen. If they were 20, then i'd understand just throwing it away.

I'll be changing the oil after work today, as well as cleaning the connections on the temp sensors.

 

There is a bleeder right by the t-stat housing.

I was talking about replacing the "brick hard" o-ring. The upper part of the vtec has one o-ring, the lower part where it bolts to the head has another o-ring with the screen made to it.

 

Sorry, I was at work earlier and can't post pic's from there (?)......anyway, the lower gasket/o-ring from the dealer comes with the screen, you have to pull it, why not put a new o-ring/screen while there. Trust me I got a leak on the 95 not long ago.

The pic is for the 5th gens, should be close enough to yours. You don't have to follow all of it, again should give an idea, don't forget the part about the heater, if you have auto HVAC you might have to turn the car on so it opens the control valve. Assuming 4 ctl.

 

For the VTEC screen, I think Poorman's talking about replacing the gasket/screen #13; not replacing the entire VTEC spool valve.


But... you'll have trouble getting a wrench on those bolts #26.