98 radiator fan troubleshoot
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98 radiator fan troubleshoot
Hi all
Driving a 98 with 214k. Radiator is cracked (southern heat) and I suspect its because the fans are not working. I let car run in park for 10 minutes and they didn't cycle on. Anyone have a quick way to check if they are working or not or know how long they take to flip on? (I did the old bang on the motor but they didn't come to life)
Driving a 98 with 214k. Radiator is cracked (southern heat) and I suspect its because the fans are not working. I let car run in park for 10 minutes and they didn't cycle on. Anyone have a quick way to check if they are working or not or know how long they take to flip on? (I did the old bang on the motor but they didn't come to life)
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Joined: May 2012
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1) Unplug the connector to the fans and check for voltage (12-14V DC) on the wires going to the fans. You may need to turn on the AC.
If no voltage, check the fuses for those fans.
If you HAVE voltage, it is likely the fans are bad.
2) Try spinning the fans by hand. If they are stuck, the fans are bad.
If you don't have a voltmeter, then disconnect the connector to the fans and put 2 wires from a 6volt battery ( those BIG ones for flashlights) and touch the leads ON THE FAN.
They should spin, If not, then the problem is a blown fuse,a bad swtich, etc....
If no voltage, check the fuses for those fans.
If you HAVE voltage, it is likely the fans are bad.
2) Try spinning the fans by hand. If they are stuck, the fans are bad.
If you don't have a voltmeter, then disconnect the connector to the fans and put 2 wires from a 6volt battery ( those BIG ones for flashlights) and touch the leads ON THE FAN.
They should spin, If not, then the problem is a blown fuse,a bad swtich, etc....
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Thanks Rock. I'll give that a try and report back.
It looks like I've also got (in addition to the radiator crack and fan problem) a small leak in the transmission line running into the radiator due to rust. So I'm thinking I might just pull a whole fans + radiator assembly at the yard.
Does anyone know what years of radiators are compatible with 98 2.3l 4 cylinder? There are a number of 97s and 99s at the local yard. Do I need to pull off the same kind of engine?
It looks like I've also got (in addition to the radiator crack and fan problem) a small leak in the transmission line running into the radiator due to rust. So I'm thinking I might just pull a whole fans + radiator assembly at the yard.
Does anyone know what years of radiators are compatible with 98 2.3l 4 cylinder? There are a number of 97s and 99s at the local yard. Do I need to pull off the same kind of engine?
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Joined: May 2012
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1998-2002 are the same as far as 4cyl.s
If you have a V6, then look for V6 in junkyard.
I checked RockAuto and the radiators for 4cyl and 6 cyl are different. At least they are different when it comes to part #'s.
If you have a V6, then look for V6 in junkyard.
I checked RockAuto and the radiators for 4cyl and 6 cyl are different. At least they are different when it comes to part #'s.
Last edited by rockhoundrob; Sep 23, 2019 at 11:00 AM.
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Didn't want to open up a new thread for this but I wanted to ask for people's opinion on the radiator.
Two days ago (after a couple of 120 miles highway trips) I noticed the coolant in the reservoir had dropped from just above the max line to just above the min line. I refilled today and tried to recreate the problem. Drove around town, nothing. Did 10 miles on the interstate, nothing, same amount of coolant, no visible leaks.
Does anyone have a idea of what might be going on? Or another way to recreate the problem? I thought the radiator was cracked somewhere maybe, but 10 miles on the highway should expose that right?
Two days ago (after a couple of 120 miles highway trips) I noticed the coolant in the reservoir had dropped from just above the max line to just above the min line. I refilled today and tried to recreate the problem. Drove around town, nothing. Did 10 miles on the interstate, nothing, same amount of coolant, no visible leaks.
Does anyone have a idea of what might be going on? Or another way to recreate the problem? I thought the radiator was cracked somewhere maybe, but 10 miles on the highway should expose that right?
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Joined: May 2006
Posts: 18,398
From: Wisconsin
Did you have the system open & maybe got an air pocket in the cooling system? If that air made its way to the radiator cap, it'll push into the reservoir bottle. Then cooling down, it'll suck coolant (not air) back into the cooling system. Once the air is gone from the system, the reservoir doesn't lose level any more.
Usually, if air gets hung up in the thermostat housing, it stays there. Maybe the highway running pushed that air over to the radiator cap where it could be expelled through the reservoir.
Usually, if air gets hung up in the thermostat housing, it stays there. Maybe the highway running pushed that air over to the radiator cap where it could be expelled through the reservoir.
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I just had a mechanic replace the timing belt(s) and all the pulleys. The reservoir is on the other side of the car...but could they have done something?
But otherwise I haven't opened the cooling system at all in the last 2 weeks.
There is a small leak in the transmission line running into the radiator (very small, due to rust). There's no way those things could be connected?
But otherwise I haven't opened the cooling system at all in the last 2 weeks.
There is a small leak in the transmission line running into the radiator (very small, due to rust). There's no way those things could be connected?
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Joined: May 2006
Posts: 18,398
From: Wisconsin
If the water pump was replaced during the timing belt job, that would have been it.
Sounds like you're going to replace the radiator for the leaking ATF fittings? Then you'll have the system open again and you'll go through the process of the air working its way out from the system. Don't worry about it now, but watch it after changing the radiator.
When you select a radiator from the yard, check the ATF lines carefully. Corrosion of those lines inside the radiator can allow coolant to get into the ATF - that probably doesn't end well...
Sounds like you're going to replace the radiator for the leaking ATF fittings? Then you'll have the system open again and you'll go through the process of the air working its way out from the system. Don't worry about it now, but watch it after changing the radiator.
When you select a radiator from the yard, check the ATF lines carefully. Corrosion of those lines inside the radiator can allow coolant to get into the ATF - that probably doesn't end well...
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Joined: Feb 2016
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From: Kimball MI
If the water pump was replaced during the timing belt job, that would have been it.
Sounds like you're going to replace the radiator for the leaking ATF fittings? Then you'll have the system open again and you'll go through the process of the air working its way out from the system. Don't worry about it now, but watch it after changing the radiator.
When you select a radiator from the yard, check the ATF lines carefully. Corrosion of those lines inside the radiator can allow coolant to get into the ATF - that probably doesn't end well...
Sounds like you're going to replace the radiator for the leaking ATF fittings? Then you'll have the system open again and you'll go through the process of the air working its way out from the system. Don't worry about it now, but watch it after changing the radiator.
When you select a radiator from the yard, check the ATF lines carefully. Corrosion of those lines inside the radiator can allow coolant to get into the ATF - that probably doesn't end well...
So are you replacing the radiator because of a line leak? Or is the radiator leaking at the AT fittings? Might be worth renting a pressure tester, and look it over real good for leaks.