I'm having an issue with my 1999 Accord EX (5-speed, 4 cylinder) and wanted to see if anyone has any suggestions.

Yesterday, I replaced the positive battery cable with an OEM cable from the dealership. After getting the cable in, the car wouldn't start. The solenoid makes a loud click, but the starter motor doesn't turn over the engine. I took the battery to O'Reilly and they tested it and said it was OK. I also pulled the starter and took it to Auto Zone, who tested and said that it was good (I saw it fire up and turn too). I tried jumping it and still nothing from the starter. I also replaced the main relay, which didn't do anything. I checked all of the fuses and none are blown.

I'm worried that I fried something while replacing the cable, but am not sure what else to check. The Haynes manual says that there is a starter cut relay inside the fuse box in the engine compartment, but there isn't one. The guy at autozone said that the starter relay is part of the main relay.

Does anyone have any suggestions for other things I could try? Thanks.

-Steve

 

Did you remove the negative battery cable when changing positive battery cable? Check carfully.

Two reasons for solenoid to "click"; solenoid contacts are worn out (note starter check might not detect this) or low voltage to starter due to high resistance (loose connection) somewhere.

Try "hammering" the starter w/ repeated on/off/on/off... and see if starter catches and starts car. If yes, the problem is worn solenoid contacts and will require replacement of starter. Solenoids are repairable on 94-97 Accord, but I'm not sure about 99 Accord.

good luck

 

Thanks so much for the response and ideas.

So I got it to start last night. I hit it a little bit with a large c-clamp, but it didn't start when I hit it (wishful thinking). It did however start after a few tries (2-5 times). I was worried about a bad ground so I replaced the negative cable with a Honda OEM cable this morning. Same result. It just clicks and starter doesn't move (but it does hum) at first. But after a few times the starter will kick in and start right up. I went back to the Auto Parts store today and they did a quick load test on the battery. It read 435 out of 490 CCA and said that was "Good" status. I had just started it up and driven about a mile. The guy at the dealership said that they have a more sophisticated tester. Th voltage on the battery is good (12.6V) and I figured 435 CCA should be enough to get the starter to at least move in 90 degree weather.

Also on the way home from the Honda Dealership, the whole thing just cut out on me. Total loss of power (clock went out too). I pulled over and got it to start again and drove another five miles without any problems. I guess it could be a separate problem, or it could be a loose connection somewhere? The battery cables are tight, clean and brand new. What other connections should I check? Thanks again for your help.

-Steve

 

I guess one more question is: Could bad/worn contacts on the starter cause the car to shut off from lack of electricity. It's a relatively easy fix to replace the starter, I just don't want to go out and spend $100+ if it's unnecessary (which goes without saying, I guess). Thanks again.

-Steve

 

Quick update: I was mistaken earlier. When the car cuts out the clock stays on, windows work, etc. (battery is still working). I also tested the voltage at the trigger wire on the starter and it read battery voltage. I did a voltage drop test on the positive and negative sides of the starter and both had little voltage drop (even when the starter was clicking and not starting). Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks.

 

To answer post#4, I don't think a starter problem would cause a running engine to stall. Is that what you're asking?

 

@JimBlake - That was one of the things I was asking. I guess this could be more than one electrical problem. I don't really know if the two are related or separate. Thanks.

 

Problem w/ cutting off while driving has appearance of ignition switch problem or ignition coil problem, both can be intermittent.

You will have to wait for no-start condition to test for 12V on blk/yel wire at distributor. If 12v missing, ignition switch is problem.

good luck

 

Thanks again for your help. I bought a new battery and that has seemed to solve the starting problem. One down. I thought all was well until it stalled out on the way home from a trip tonight. I'll let it idle and see if it stalls at home so that I can test for voltage.

 

See if you can get it to stall by wiggling the key. If so, it's a bad switch.

Unfortunately, if you CAN'T get it to stall, that doesn't prove the switch is completely OK.