When I was driving around yesterday, my brakes became a little spongy on occasion. Sometimes it would be normal, but other times I would have to floor the brake pedal in order for it to come to a full stop. I had a similar issue with my previous car, the '96 Stratus. With the Stratus, it was the M/C and calipers that went kaput.

With my Accord however, I get the ABS "Whirr noise of death". I pulled the codes, and I got the high pressure leakage and pressure switch codes. I work second shift, I really don't have the time of day to do much of anything and since brakes are probably the most important thing to take care of, I may have to just take it to a garage. *cringes*

I have checked the forum to see if anyone has had similar issues, and came across one thread where someone had a similar problem and the M/C needed to be replaced. I know this seems like a long shot, but do you think it could be the M/C or the ABS Reservoir that needs replacing?

 

ABS problems don't usually cause loss of fluid, but can. Check the body plugs on the modulator. They are a known source of leakage.

If brake pedal is pumped firm and then goes soft, MC is likely.

Used modulators are readily available on ebay or car-part.com, usually < $50. I like to source a local part via car-part.com and go by to inspect and decide on purchase. They will usually offer a "good part" warranty.

good luck

 

Thanks! Luckily, my employer has given me two days off in a row, so I'll be able to at least take a look at the MC. The modulator may be a little rough, because I'm not sure where to start with that. I'm actually surprised they don't even have it in the Hayne's manual!

Anyways, I'll check back in when things start going. Thanks again for the response, Texas.

 

There is a 94 Accord manual available for download in the DIY forum, under "Online Manuals" post. This has good info on ABS system.

Search w/ google for a honda shop procedure for tightening the ABS modulator plugs. I found a leak on 97 Acura 2.2 CL that has same modulator as Accords and fixed w/ tightening the plugs. Procedure says to remove/clean/reinstall. I only tightened and stopped the leak.

good luck

 

After a good cleaning under the hood, and parking it over some cardboard, I think I know where the 1 3 code is coming from. On the front left side (near the ABS modulator, close to the wheel), I do see a small leak. I also wiped the top of the ABS reservoir off, and lo and behold, it's covered the next day. Brake fluid levels are fine too... If the weather cooperates, I'll be fiddling with the Modulator (checking gaskets, tightening, etc.) , bleeding, etc.

 

On a side note, since I have the 1 3 code pretty much taken care of, it's the 1 4 (high pressure switch) that's throwing me off. Do you think releasing pressure from the modulator would do any good? Or would you say that taking care of the high pressure leak would also take care of the high pressure switch?

I have a few of the manuals from the DIY section on my computer, as well as the Haynes, and I can't seem to find an answer in regards to taking care of that. I have read on a few different forums that the 5th gen Accord pressure switch is 'gas powered', instead of having an actual 'pressure release valve'.

 

I thought pressure switch simply turned pump off when pre-set pressure level in accumulator was reached, balancing hydraulic and gas pressure. A faulty switch might cause pump to run on too long. I think there's a pressure relief valve in system to protect against overpressure.

good luck

 

Well, the weirdest thing happened yesterday when I was taking a drive around town yesterday. The ABS modulator made the initial whir noise for a few seconds, and stopped. The ABS light still came on after about a minute or so though. I'm sure it was just a fluke, and I'm still going to take a look at everything.

I plan on swapping out the MC on Sunday too since they're pretty cheap.

I'll update on Sunday once everything is taken care of.

 

Quick question on relieving the pressure/bleeding the system. Should I use a turkey baster on the ABS reservoir as well as the MC?

 

It won't hurt anything to check the fluid level in the abs res (different than the master cyl). Also bleeding the abs unit is pretty easy on these.