1995 Accord Ex 4-banger

Greetings!
I recently was having issues with my AC getting cold and leaking freon from the low side schrader valve I was like time to refresh the components! Due to the fact I get the components at cost was not a biggie, but now I can't get the car to cool down to where it use to cool to. Before the schrader valve was leaking it use to cool down between 39-44 degrees. I have a mechanical pocket thermometer and a digital one.

Replaced items:
All new parts except for one compressor:

Expansion valve (Replaced twice with new parts)
Condenser (Replaced twice with new parts)
Evaporator
Compressor (one new and another from a good running accord with AC)
Drier (Replaced twice with new parts)
Replaced all seals
5oz of PAG46
Schrader valves on low and high side.

I have gauges, a vacuum pump and access to a evacuation machine.
Freon is 12 ounces plain jane R134a from Walmart.

I vacuum the system down to 30inHg and it holds so I let it set with the pump off and gauges closed for 2-3 hours. The system accepts Min 21.02 ounces to 22.9 ounces of freon so I usually charge to 22.0 ounces (I measure with a scale). With the ambient temperature being 75, I should be getting at least 35-45 on the low side and 150-170 on the high side. The temps on the inside vents are 51 degrees. It should be at least 40-44 at this point. Testing the temps on a hot day, about 95 degrees, it only cools to 68 degrees. Once again it used to chill down between 40-44 degrees.

At this point I am lost and want to achieve my cold air back! The warm air that is blowing is uncomfortable! The only item(s) I haven't replaced is the lines but did remove them and spayed some refrigerant cleaner through each one. Just for giggles I had a shop evacuate and recharge the system and same results. I have tried different gauges and same results.

Any input will be accepted.

 

Is the freon can R-134A? Dose the can have oil in it too?

Are those pictures at the end of the post the current pressures?

 

The can doesn't have oil, just plain jane R134a.

The pics are when it was 80 degrees out.

 

What is air temp inside car when 51F is measured? In my experience you should be getting close to 40F unless cabin temps are 90 or higher.

Suggest checking whether heater core valve is partially open (firewall on pax side behind distributor). This can warm cool air (controlled by air temp setting ****). See attachment.


good luck

 

What steps did you use to fill the compressor. When I do a/c work I'm looking for temp in the low 30s high 20s.

1. Did you bleed the service line first before filling. (If not could be air in system)

2. Did you do this alone or have help. (Need someone three to get RPMs up to 2000 while filling (once clutch kicks in). It makes a big difference)

Being that you said you had cool air before doing the work I oils you think you heater valve is the issue. The only other thing is the expansion valve is bad but manifold is not indicating that.

 

Thanks for the advise.

Just pulled the heater core and broke the inlet, but otherwise it was closing and opening normally. I have a spare to throw in tomorrow and bleed the system once installed. Pics are as follows:

1. OPEN INLET
2. CLOSED INLET
3. OPEN OUTLET
4. CLOSED OUTLET

 

I have done about 12 A/C jobs this summer and have never been able to get the cabin temps below 38. Your a wizard!

1. I do bleed before opening low side valve on the gauges once can is pierced and attached to the yellow line.

2. I have never had to raise the RPM's on any A/C job I have done to refill any car with A/C and they all seem to blow between 40-44 degrees. Maybe I will take that into consideration next time I do an A/C repair.

I have swapped the expansion valve twice just to "rule it out" so I don't think that is the issue. Also, usually if its an expansion valve issue the low side would be drawing a vacuum once the compressor kicks on in my experience.

 

You are right you do not have to raise the RPMs to fill your compressor but you will see a difference if you do.

Before you performed your ac maintenance was your ac running cold or warm? I'm trying to figure out why change a part that was not the initial issue before the work was done?

 

You replaced almost everything in the system twice except for the evaporator. Were these new Honda OEM parts, or aftermarket?

RPM on the engine shouldn't make a difference when charging with R-134a.

Is it possible that you got the evaporator installed out of line, where hot outside air is not flowing through the evaporator?

When you turn on the a/c with the engine running, do both fans on the radiator turn on?

Is there any debris on the radiator preventing air flow?

Does the a/c clutch stay engaged when the engine is running and the a/c is turned on?

Sorry for the random questions, but the cause of the problem is not obvious.

 

The heater core valve itself is rarely the problem, rather the adjustment mechanism is not correct.

Typical "pull-down" for ac system ( cabin air temp - center vent air temp) is 35-45F depending on humidity and air temp.

good luck