I just did the tranny swap, I have almost everything set already but im having trouble one thing I got no idea how to bypass the safety neutral switch and my instrument panel drive light is flashing I haven't tried to start it because of that. Does anyone know how please I need some assistance?

 

Neutral switch can be shorted permanently to simulate clutch pedal pressed. This will allow starting. If you're asking about the auto trans range P, N switch, the same thing applies.

D indicator flashing means a DTC is stored for AT. Need obd2 scanner to find code for a clue to problem.

good luck

 

Thanks for reply, do you the procedure to short the neutral switch and the range ?

 

1. You swapped transmissions; but, still kept the transmission range switch (previously on A/T housing) attached or hanging somewhere?

2. On a M/T, to start the car, the clutch interlock switch (switch grounded when clutch pedal pressed) takes the place of the A/T transmission range switch. The Lt. Grn wire goes to the starter cut relay (located in the under-dash fuse/relay box).

If you did not installed a clutch interlock switch at the clutch pedal, then that wire needs to be grounded.

3. Although not part of your questions, did you hook up the wire from the back-up light switch on the M/T transmission housing for the back-up lights (reverse lights)?

4. The gauge control module (instruments cluster) and PCM are different between an A/T and M/T; although, people have used the A/T modules with the M/T swap; supposedly certain lights will remain on with the use of the A/T modules.

 

I still have the range and i haven't connected the reverse lights if u know how to that will be a great help

 

Basically all i got left is to do on the car is the wiring stuff

 

The back-up lights (reverse) circuit is actually simpler on the M/T than the A/T. It doesn't need to run though the Multiplex Integrated Control Unit (MICU) for a M/T.

If you have the 2-P gray harness connector for the back-up light switch, the Yel wire normally is power by under-dash Fuse No. 21 (7.5A), which gets power when the ignition is in ON or START (however, it not necessary that you connect this to Fuse No. 21 wiring, just any power source; preferably ignition switch powered).

The Grn/Wht or Grn/Yel wire on the 2-P gray connector needs to be connected to the Grn wire that goes to the back-up lights.

When you shift the M/T to reverse, the back-up light switch contacts closes and power goes through the switch to the back-up lights.

There are various places where you can hook up the wires. You can run the wires inside the cabin. If you take a picture of the under-dash fuse/relay box area (include the connector plugs that go into the fuse box) and another picture of the wire connectors on the left of the OBD-II port, I can add some notes to your pictures to show where the wires are to tap into.

 

Sorry i took long to reply... i have the car running right now but i havent conected the back up lights and i also need to connect the vss ...

 

Redbull i have no idea of what grey plug and my back up fuse is number 7 its a 10 amps fuse

 

Driver's under-dash No. 7 (10A) is the Back Up Fuse for the Gauge control module, Immobilizer control unit-receiver, MICU, Navigation display unit (EX-L: Navigation), Navigation unit (EX-L: Navigation), Power window master switch (’05), Wiper/washer switch. That is not the same fuse for the back-up lights (reverse).

For the back-up (reverse) lights:
"There are various places where you can hook up the wires. You can run the wires inside the cabin. If you take a picture of the under-dash fuse/relay box area (include the connector plugs that go into the fuse box) and another picture of the wire connectors on the left of the OBD-II port, I can add some notes to your pictures to show where the wires are to tap into."