accord 2000 4cyl.- couple of problems
#1
accord 2000 4cyl.- couple of problems
hello
1. when i rev the engine, car stationary, after releasing the pedal most of the times rpm drops to 0 and then goes up again to idle, or the engine just stalls. if i rev it from the throttle, after i release it i hear a click sound from the fuse box area.
with a/c on, sometimes the engine hesitates from idle.
any ideas what's wrong?
2. the crankshaft pulley looks wobbly when the engine runs, here's a little video i took.
should i bother to remove the pulley and re-install it or install a spare one?
1. when i rev the engine, car stationary, after releasing the pedal most of the times rpm drops to 0 and then goes up again to idle, or the engine just stalls. if i rev it from the throttle, after i release it i hear a click sound from the fuse box area.
with a/c on, sometimes the engine hesitates from idle.
any ideas what's wrong?
2. the crankshaft pulley looks wobbly when the engine runs, here's a little video i took.
should i bother to remove the pulley and re-install it or install a spare one?
Last edited by Eran Teitelbaum; 06-12-2018 at 02:31 AM.
#2
It is hard to tell from the video if the crank pulley is wobbling or if it is just the engine shaking.
Did you do any work on the car before you started experiencing this problem?
A simple test for the pulley is to draw a radius line on the pulley face from the bolt to an edge. Drive the car and get it to act up. Shut off the engine and see if you still have a straight line. That pulley has a rubber piece that can separate causing the crank part to spin, but the outside part holding the belt may not spin.
Did you do any work on the car before you started experiencing this problem?
A simple test for the pulley is to draw a radius line on the pulley face from the bolt to an edge. Drive the car and get it to act up. Shut off the engine and see if you still have a straight line. That pulley has a rubber piece that can separate causing the crank part to spin, but the outside part holding the belt may not spin.
#6
The crankshaft will have some lateral movement, so that wobble may be normal. If you look closely at the crank pulley, there rubber between the inner metal and outer metal. Mark a white-out line then drive for a bit to see if the rubber is still holding the inner&outer metal pieces together. It is an easy test to try.
I'd probably disconnect the battery and clean all ends of both battery cables with a wire brush or sandpaper.
I would expect a bad crank pulley to give you problems all the time and not just on a warm start-up.
You should stop by an autoparts store and have them scan for codes. Post any codes on here. You can also have them test the battery and alternator to make sure they are working properly.
I'd probably disconnect the battery and clean all ends of both battery cables with a wire brush or sandpaper.
I would expect a bad crank pulley to give you problems all the time and not just on a warm start-up.
You should stop by an autoparts store and have them scan for codes. Post any codes on here. You can also have them test the battery and alternator to make sure they are working properly.
#8
Not sure I remember from another thread - you're in Israel?
If you were in US, I'd say that it doesn't matter where it's built. It matters what market it's built FOR. Made in US, made in Canada, made in Japan, made in UK, if it's built FOR the US then it'll have a compliant OBD-2 system and you can choose from a lot of scanners that are readily available in the US.
I don't know how that works for cars that are built for sale in Europe or Middle-East or whatever region. It's probably not specific to Israel, but I don't know what region (for carmaker laws) you fall into.
If you were in US, I'd say that it doesn't matter where it's built. It matters what market it's built FOR. Made in US, made in Canada, made in Japan, made in UK, if it's built FOR the US then it'll have a compliant OBD-2 system and you can choose from a lot of scanners that are readily available in the US.
I don't know how that works for cars that are built for sale in Europe or Middle-East or whatever region. It's probably not specific to Israel, but I don't know what region (for carmaker laws) you fall into.
#9
Not sure I remember from another thread - you're in Israel?
If you were in US, I'd say that it doesn't matter where it's built. It matters what market it's built FOR. Made in US, made in Canada, made in Japan, made in UK, if it's built FOR the US then it'll have a compliant OBD-2 system and you can choose from a lot of scanners that are readily available in the US.
I don't know how that works for cars that are built for sale in Europe or Middle-East or whatever region. It's probably not specific to Israel, but I don't know what region (for carmaker laws) you fall into.
If you were in US, I'd say that it doesn't matter where it's built. It matters what market it's built FOR. Made in US, made in Canada, made in Japan, made in UK, if it's built FOR the US then it'll have a compliant OBD-2 system and you can choose from a lot of scanners that are readily available in the US.
I don't know how that works for cars that are built for sale in Europe or Middle-East or whatever region. It's probably not specific to Israel, but I don't know what region (for carmaker laws) you fall into.
Agreed. My Japan built 99 Accord was built to US specs, just like my wife's 2000 Ohio built Accord. I use the same scan tool on both.
But like Jim mentioned above, I don't know where Israel falls as for which country the scan tool would work.
#10
I found these 2 sockets near the bonnet release, one is 2 pin and the other 3 pin.
so i assume the 2 pin is the one you jump and count how many times the check engine light flashes, and the 3 pin is for a scanner?
Will it work with an obd-2 scanner and an adapter cable?