I have a '93 Accord and I have read the good installation tips on this website for changing the oil pan gasket but I want to know what your experience has been and what problems if any you had. I am particullarly concerned with the removal of the exhaust pipe and what pitfalls I need to watch out for with removing and installing it. My car has 245,000 miles on it but is in good condition otherwise.

What tips do you have for this issue?? Thanks!

 

soak the 3 bolts at the exhaust manifold to'A' pipe connection with PB Blaster penetrating fluid.
have a bungee cord handy for holding the exhaust pipe out of the way, go ahead and take that flat exhaust hanger bracket loose from the back of the block, it's pinched under the intake manifold support. 2 - 12mm bolts
If the old gasket is really stuck bad to the pan, use a propane torch under the pan lip to help break it loose, then peel and torch your way around.
DO NOT over torque the pan bolts/nuts when going back together, better to recheck them after a couple days. 10 ftlbs max.
Lay a smear of Hondabond or 'ultragrey' sealer on the part of the gasket that goes where the crank humps are. I usually put a blob of sealer on the studs of the block to hold the gasket in place while bringing the pan up.
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I am thinking of giving this a go on the weekend. Thanks for the tips. I will probably go for the Honda gasket instead of aftermarket.

 

i did a pan gasket on my F22 awile ago, and the exhaust isnt too hard if the bolts dont break. spray some PB blaster (i just used WD-40, but PB blaster would most likely work way better) on the exhaust bolts and make sure you have a breaker bar to take them off with, they dont come off easy. Might want to have a few extra bolts around in case one does break. be careful with the gasket on the exhaust pipes, it crumbles fairly easily. make sure you DO NOT overtighten the pan bolts. 10 ft lbs MAX. And make sure that when you take the old gasket off the metal rings inside the gasket do not stick to the block. Make sure that both the block and the oil pan surfaces are spotless before putting the new gasket on. Use sealer where its needed.

Good luck! Pan gasket it not too incredibly hard, It was a good jumpstart for me to get some more confidence working on my car.

 

Thanks! I have been very afraid of the exhaust and that is why I have put it off this long. I have done a few other repairs and am a fairly good shade tree mechanic. Nothing special, but I just don't want to get into something that ends up being more than I barganed for.

 

I just called the Honda Dealer and am going to pick up the gasket. They said the gasket gray sealer wasn't necessary. I don't think it is gonna hurt putting it on...... right?

 

If youuse too much gasket-sealerit'll 'lubricate' the gasketletting it squirm around when you tighten the bolts. Then it leaks... There's 4 split lines - between the block & oilpump and between the block & rear sealholder. Those places need a little sealer. Don't go nuts with the amount of sealer & you'll be OK.

You'll probably have to crank pretty hard on some of the exhaust bolts. Make sure the car's supported really solid before you get underneath & knock it down on top of yourself.

 

At the dealer, the other parts guy printed out the HONDA directions on replacing the gasket and it shows using Hondabond. I picked up a tube of that stuff also. $12.50[X(]. Expensive but I don't want to have to do this again.

 

i just went to autozone and bought some permatex non-hardening gasket sealer. $15 for a tiny bottle of hondabond is rediculous.

 

I know, I know...
It is probably the same stuff but since Permatex has several different types of sealer, I can't go wrong with the Hondabond (except for about $9 extra bucks!