Blinking D4 - TCM Code of '4'
Hi,
I have a 1994 Accord Wagon. Yesterday the D4 light on dash started blinking continuously. It appears to be driving 'ok' and not shifting difficultly. But it's pretty old and I don't think I've serviced the transmission in a long time, if ever.
I shorted the connector and got a TCM code of '4' (D4 light blinking). The CEL did not blink.
Thanks for any help! Just want some info before I head to a mechanic.
I have a 1994 Accord Wagon. Yesterday the D4 light on dash started blinking continuously. It appears to be driving 'ok' and not shifting difficultly. But it's pretty old and I don't think I've serviced the transmission in a long time, if ever.
I shorted the connector and got a TCM code of '4' (D4 light blinking). The CEL did not blink.
- What does code 4 indicate?
- It's not really shifting poorly - could the code be faulty or just a maintenance issue?
- The car is idling very low today for the first time - is this just coincidence, or does it have something to do with the error?
- My speedometer has been broken for a couple years - works about 5% of the time. Pretty sure it's an issue in the dash with the speedometer itself. Is this totally separate issue?
- If it helps, I had to replace the entire ECM (computer) last year. Got a used one and put it in myself. Fixed the issues I was having. I 'believe' the transmission computer was part of it, but not positive.
Thanks for any help! Just want some info before I head to a mechanic.
Code 4 is for a lock up issue, most of the time casued by the VSS. Check/test the VSS first. There is a link to a shop manual in the Common DIY Threads that will help with the testing.
Last edited by poorman212; Nov 10, 2011 at 07:26 PM.
Thanks for the reply!
I found a post in the DIY thread with all the codes, though. This is what it says for code '4':
4-Vehicle Speed Sensor open or shorted - No signal from speedometer
Thanks. I'll try to look more into the VSS.
I found a post in the DIY thread with all the codes, though. This is what it says for code '4':
4-Vehicle Speed Sensor open or shorted - No signal from speedometer
- So could this be caused by my speedometer going bad, or is there something actually wrong with the VSS (or both)?!?
- And if there is something wrong with the VSS, does it affect anything more than the speedometer? What other symptoms would I notice?
Thanks. I'll try to look more into the VSS.
Last edited by poorman212; Nov 10, 2011 at 09:56 PM.
Thanks again for the helpful links!
OK, so on driving home I noticed that the cruise control does NOT work. The light on the instrument cluster does not come on for it either.
But the cruise control HAS worked OK since the speedometer started acting up a couple years ago. So this is new.
I also checked the inside fuse for cruise control and ECU. This was fine.
So I see that there are ways to diagnose the wiring and/or sensor itself. I don't really have the tools for it, so hopefully a mechanic won't charge me a ton to do it. Or should I just have the VSS replaced??
I also noticed prices for a VSS on eBay ranging from $10-20 up to over $60. Is there a big difference if my car is pretty old and I'm not too concerned with having the latest/greatest??
Thanks!
OK, so on driving home I noticed that the cruise control does NOT work. The light on the instrument cluster does not come on for it either.
But the cruise control HAS worked OK since the speedometer started acting up a couple years ago. So this is new.
I also checked the inside fuse for cruise control and ECU. This was fine.
So I see that there are ways to diagnose the wiring and/or sensor itself. I don't really have the tools for it, so hopefully a mechanic won't charge me a ton to do it. Or should I just have the VSS replaced??
I also noticed prices for a VSS on eBay ranging from $10-20 up to over $60. Is there a big difference if my car is pretty old and I'm not too concerned with having the latest/greatest??
Thanks!
OK, today the CEL came on for the first time. The code it gives is 17. This is just another indicator that the VSS could be bad, correct?
And I found someone who could do the testing and replace for $60-80. So I'm just wondering about the difference between the ~$20 part on eBay -vs- the ~$55 part from wholesalers -vs- the ~$145 part from a dealer?!?
- Anyone have experience using any of the different range of parts?? I definitely don't want to spend $145 for it, but I also want it to work and not just go out again in a short time.
- And anyone have an issue with idle dropping in regards to this, or is this probably a completely separate unrelated issue??
THANKS!
And I found someone who could do the testing and replace for $60-80. So I'm just wondering about the difference between the ~$20 part on eBay -vs- the ~$55 part from wholesalers -vs- the ~$145 part from a dealer?!?
- Anyone have experience using any of the different range of parts?? I definitely don't want to spend $145 for it, but I also want it to work and not just go out again in a short time.
- And anyone have an issue with idle dropping in regards to this, or is this probably a completely separate unrelated issue??
THANKS!
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