I would remove MC and return to place of purchase for a refund. Then get an OEM Honda MC. This solves two problems. You won't have to chance clutch pedal adjustment (a major nightmare) and you have highest probability of a good part (nobody's perfect).

good luck

 

Bled the ABS Modulator then all 4 brakes today. Pedal feels a little better but now the abs modulator runs for 30 or so seconds then shuts off. After it shuts off the abs light comes on.

 

Brakes and ABS modulator are likely separate issues. I've never seen a problem w/ brakes and ABS linked, but it may be possible. System is supposed to fail safe, i.e ABS should not cause brake problems.

Short the Service Check Connector and read ABS light flashes for codes. All short flashes w/ short pause between 1st-second digit, and long pause between sequential codes; F-FFFF =14 or 1-4 (see 94-97 Honda shop manual for code explanations). When modulator runs for 30 secs, it's trying to build pressure in the accumulator. When pressure doesn't come up (pressure switch stays off), the ABS controller shuts ABS down and sets ABS light to show the system is not working.

An ABS leak may be an internal valve that can't be repaired or failed pump seal that also can't be repaired. A used modulator is easiest fix. They are widely available through car-part.com to find a modulator near your location. Prices are generally < $100. Make sure you get a garuntee for a working unit.Yard won't know if the unit is good or bad and you won't know until it's installed.

good luck

 

In response to postinghondaaccordforum.com/fb.asp?m=115947, I am having a very similar problem with my ABS system on my wife's 97 AccordV6. It started very shortly after I did a brake job on it. I put on new pads and slotted rotors front and back, and steel high pressure hoses. I then bled down the system, flushing out all the old fluid and replacing it with new after reading many articles that say it is now reccomended to replace the entire fluid volum periodically. My brake pedal never has and does not now go to the floor at all, but I began having ABS problems right after I did the brake job. Here is the problem I am having:

Within a day or 2 of the brake job, the ABS light came on after startup. At the begining, it would come on, and you could hear the system buzz for about 30 seconds as the system pressurized, and the light would go out. After stepping on the pedal once(at the beginning of the problem) the light would come back on. Eventually, the light would come on and the system would pressurize, the light would go off, then the system would evidently lose pressure on it's own(leak down?) and the light would go off, while driving even if the pedal wasn't depressed. Now, the ABS light goes off as it should (for the bulb check) then comes right on and stays on the entire driving time. I never hear the buzzing of the system pressurizing anymore. As it should be with the fail safe, my regular brakes work fine, just no ABS.

Thru this forum, I went to a link that posted an ABS trouble shooting section from Honda and the codes. I shorted out the connector, and the only code I got was 1, then a long pause, and another 1. Then nothing else. I ran it several times, because the trouble shooting guide did not say if it gives the trouble code only one time, or if it would give it twice. I ran the DTC 4 times, and each time it gave me a 1 a long pause then 1 again. It seems to me to be a primary code of 1, with no secondary code. Following the proceedure , the teststellme that I must replace the UNDER-HOOD ABS FUSE/RELAY BOX because I do NOT have battery voltage on the ABS B2 connector wire #3 with the ignition switch in the off position. NOTE: When I turn the ignition switch to the on position, this same wire shows full battery voltage.

Can this be right?

I am posting because I seem to be having the same ABS problem as garretthes, in relation to doing a complete brake job and losing my ABS. I am not however having a pedal that goes to the floor. Am hoping someone can shed some more light on this. I a am also having a hard time believing that the brake job has nothing to do with losing the ABS and that it is just a coincidence as suggested, since both of us got the same problem after doing a complete brake job. Up until now, I have never had an ABS problem with any car I ever owned, outside the obvious one of a cracked sensor ring, or a bad wheel sensor. I am both fascinated and perplexed by this and by 2 of us having the identical ABS problem after a brake change and bleed.

 

Sorry it's been so long since I posted. Here is the latest.
Thanks joepeterson56 for the interest but I fixed the abs light/pump problem by bleeding the abs. It was very tricky since the pressure is so high.
After driving the car for several months I replaced the MC again, hoping that was the problem. It was the only thing anyone could think of.
Bought another Rabestos MC, bench bled, installed, bled system, drove the car. Gues what.....

Same problem. Sometimes (ussually after soon after starting) the system loses pressure.
I'm thinking of taking it to a Honda dealer next.

 

Can't get a post to this thread Sorry

 

A bulge in the rubber part of the brake hose would cause this problem.

 

any update on this garretthes?

I am having the same issue. I have replaced the MC, and it still occasionally acts up. I guess it could be a bad new MC, but I have a feeling it is something else.