I have a 92 Honda Accord EX 2 door standard shift 4 cyl. Each time I replace the part its good for a day, or a week then it goes to the same result.Within the first ten minutes of braking the drivers side caliper tightens up and does'nt release intill you let it set and cool down, or you crack the bleeder bolt loose and it releases. I know you say its the Master cyl. Did that. then you say rubber line from frame to caliper, it probably has broken down inside and is causing restrictions to flow back to master cyl. Did that,Then you say caliper did that twice thinking it was a bad rebuild part, sometimes happens, bled about two quarts through it, dont know what to do. HELP

 

It may be the caliper slide pin/bolt. Try replacing the slide pin/bolts and greasing them with some high temperature silicone brake grease.

If that doesn't work, the caliper may need replacement.

 

As I said, replaced caliper twice, with calipers also comes with hardware which consists of slide pins boot, bolts and stainless pad slides.

 

Are you replacing with a bare, bracketed or loaded caliper?

 

Since relieving pressure released the brake pad, this suggests pressure is trapped in the caliper. I've heard of brake hoses developing a loose flap that results in a check valve effect; flow one way, check flow the other.

When pressure is trapped, you might try cracking a brake line nut at the master cylinder. If you find pressure trapped, you know the master cylinder is holding pressure and not releasing.

Note, this can be caused by too tight tolerance between master cylinder piston end and brake booster push rod. Shop manual describes a procedure for adjusting the gap. It requires a special tool and requires adjustment from inside the car, under the dash.

It might be possible to "fudge" a solution by installing a thin hard paper or metal shim between MC and booster. Clearance should be 0-20 mils, but again requires a special tool to measure.

good luck