One thing that's different is the ABS setup. The book says they're two completely separate systems, yet the brake lines go through the module and interact with it, and there's almost no info out there on how it's routed or how it works. It has a pump and accumulator, but nowhere does it say whether that could have anything to do with losing system pressure. I need to get my hands on a good service manual instead of this crappy Haynes.

I just went out to look at the front calipers, kinda hard to tell in the dark with the tires on, but it looks like the bleeders are at the bottom! Could it be that simple? Gonna go fire up the lights and brave the cold. Will post later to let you know how it went. Thanks!!!!!

More to the point... no, I didn't measure the push rod. The instructions that came with the MC didn't mention that, and I was already having the pressure problem before I changed it. The new one was also missing the gasket and some of the bench bleeder fittings. When I exchanged it for another I made sure it had all the parts and the new gasket is on properly. Both units were bench bled well past the point of no bubbles.

I got the rt rear caliper unstuck by pressurizing it out of the car. Once the piston was loose it was obvious it screwed in instead of pressing. The book says to screw it back in with needle nose pliers, but next time I'm grinding an old socket to fit and work like the tool Honda has.

 

Yes it can be that simple and has been done before. With the bleeder at the bottom you will have air trapped in the caliper above the bleeder. I didn't think of it until I reread your post and notice you lost the pedal after changing both the calipers. My boss at the first garage I worked at did that. Either way let us know what you find.

 

For the rear pistons, I've used a putty knife as a wide screwdriver. Or... AutoZone-type places sell a little cube with nubs that you stick onto a 3/8 socket extension.

With the bleeders on the bottom, there's no way to remove air from the caliper body. That would explain the whole thing (good idea Chris).

The HELM shop manual has more explanation of the ABS, but not to the point of dismantling the ABS modulator. The statement that it's "two separate systems" is wrong. The brake lines DO go through the modulator, but there's no place for fluid to dissappear in there.

 

IT WORKED!!!!!!

I feel a little dumb "causing" the problem in the first place, but then i learned a lot, met some great folks and may not have found the faulty back brake until it was too late, so this was a good experience.

Thanks, Chris, for being sharp enough to catch the solution, Jim for taking the time to teach me, and everyone else who jumped in to help. Hopefully I can return the favor or pass the goodwill to someone else.

Nice forum here, with excellent people. Thanks again!

 

Good job

At the first garage I worked at we did pretty much the same thing. It was late eighties GM vehicle with rear disk. We replaced the rear pads and then couldn’t get a pedal. Instead of going back to the change we made we started replacing parts which included master, booster, and rear calipers. We found out you have to remove the parking brake cable then turn the stem to adjust the pads to they just drag and reinstall the cable. Just like doing rear drums. This wented on over a few days.


Chris

 

This thread definitely taught me something new today!