Brakes seizing in 2007 Accord
#1
Brakes seizing in 2007 Accord
Hi,
I have a 2007 Accord sedan. A few days ago my wife noticed that it was shaking at highway speeds and smelled burned brake pads ... but not all the time.
Rear rotors looked pretty bad, had them (and the pads) replaced a couple days ago, same problem.
Took it back in today (had to go to a Monro, my regular guy not open on Sundays). They found a seized front caliper, replaced it, replaced the front pads, machined the rotors, still the same problem.
When I first picked it up, it seemed fine. I took it out a couple hours later and after awhile I could feel the drag from the brakes, I pulled over and both front rotors are smoking. I put in in reverse and forward a couple times and I was able to release them and get home.
It seems that when it's like this the brake pedal is kind of depressed already. It seems that something is sticking.
Any thoughts?
TIA
Mike
I have a 2007 Accord sedan. A few days ago my wife noticed that it was shaking at highway speeds and smelled burned brake pads ... but not all the time.
Rear rotors looked pretty bad, had them (and the pads) replaced a couple days ago, same problem.
Took it back in today (had to go to a Monro, my regular guy not open on Sundays). They found a seized front caliper, replaced it, replaced the front pads, machined the rotors, still the same problem.
When I first picked it up, it seemed fine. I took it out a couple hours later and after awhile I could feel the drag from the brakes, I pulled over and both front rotors are smoking. I put in in reverse and forward a couple times and I was able to release them and get home.
It seems that when it's like this the brake pedal is kind of depressed already. It seems that something is sticking.
Any thoughts?
TIA
Mike
#2
If you rule out sticking calipers (replaced them, right), here's an unusual possibility that I've seen here in the forum.
Rubber brake hose deteriorates inside, somehow creating a flap of material that acts like a check valve. It keeps the caliper pressurized which locks the brake.
Rubber brake hose deteriorates inside, somehow creating a flap of material that acts like a check valve. It keeps the caliper pressurized which locks the brake.
#3
I would suggest retuning to Monroe. They charged you for parts/labor for a wrong diagnosis. They should repair for only new parts at least, but more appropriate would be no charge at all.
Agree w/ Jim that about all left is some sort of internal flap on brake lines causing a check valve effect.
It might also be possible for a master cylinder to get "sticky" and not totally unload when brakes are released. Frankly I've never heard of this, but it seems possible.
good lck
Agree w/ Jim that about all left is some sort of internal flap on brake lines causing a check valve effect.
It might also be possible for a master cylinder to get "sticky" and not totally unload when brakes are released. Frankly I've never heard of this, but it seems possible.
good lck
#4
Yea, master cylinder. If the brake-pedal height adjustment is wrong, the MC could be in a position where the internal vent is not open. That vent needs to be open when you are NOT pressing the pedal. It's possible to mess that up if you adjust the brake pedal to your personal preference instead of the correct height.
But having said that, it would cause more than 1 caliper to be locked up. Most likely all 4.
But having said that, it would cause more than 1 caliper to be locked up. Most likely all 4.
#5
Have you had any issues with the brake lights staying on?
I had a client one time with the same issue after visiting a shade tree mechanic.
The cause was he put a bolt instead of the little plastic piece that touches the switch-to-brake pedal.
Just a thought.
I had a client one time with the same issue after visiting a shade tree mechanic.
The cause was he put a bolt instead of the little plastic piece that touches the switch-to-brake pedal.
Just a thought.
#6
I'd say master cylinder. I've not had the issues you describe but given that all the calipers replaced (assuming certified brake techs) and rotors and pads, there isn't much left in the system. ABS aside anyway. You didn't mention if it has ABS. I have seen such issues with ABS. If you have that, your ABS may be malfunctioning. Could be something as simple as air in the ABS solenoids or defective ABS solenoids or computer. If you don't have ABS, I still say replace the master cylinder. I've had issues with both my 95 Accord and my sons 96 Civic master cylinders. In my case I replaced mine before problems struck. In my sons case, he rear ended a Tahoe when his master cylinder failed at the worst possible moment. Mine failed exactly the same way his did. Before I replaced the master or had the ABS checked, I'd look under the dash and make sure the pedal return spring hasn't snapped......sean
#7
Thank you all for your comments. To be clear the things that have been done so far are:
Replace rear rotors and pads.
Replace front pads, left front caliper, machined front rotors.
Took it back to my regular guy, he's been busy but looked at it today. Both fronts are sticking, rears are okay.
He feels that it is probably the master cylinder. He did also mention that ABS might be malfunctioning but thought less likely.
You are probably right TexasHonda that I should get Monro to do this work but really ... I don't want to go back there. I have used my local guy for 15 years and really trust him but he wasn't open over the holiday weekend and I panicked. I console myself with the thought that I bought the car with 55K, it now has 117K and I don't believe I've ever had any brake work done, I went through all my receipts.
I'll let you know what happens, I know the worst thing I can do at this point is not tell you what the final conclusion is, right?
Thanks a lot.
Mike
Replace rear rotors and pads.
Replace front pads, left front caliper, machined front rotors.
Took it back to my regular guy, he's been busy but looked at it today. Both fronts are sticking, rears are okay.
He feels that it is probably the master cylinder. He did also mention that ABS might be malfunctioning but thought less likely.
You are probably right TexasHonda that I should get Monro to do this work but really ... I don't want to go back there. I have used my local guy for 15 years and really trust him but he wasn't open over the holiday weekend and I panicked. I console myself with the thought that I bought the car with 55K, it now has 117K and I don't believe I've ever had any brake work done, I went through all my receipts.
I'll let you know what happens, I know the worst thing I can do at this point is not tell you what the final conclusion is, right?
Thanks a lot.
Mike
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