R134a based systems have a high pressure cut off switch that will cause the system to cycle off when the high side exceeds the setpoint on the switch. When the pressure comes back down, the system will cycle back on. If system is low on r134a then it will not cycle at all and remain off.

take your fan relays out and test them
test your fans by jumping directly to battery
test the compressor clutch by jumping directly to battery

 

,, first off chk the fuse # 34 , 15 amps under hood fuse box,,,(that fuse power cond fan relay and compressor clutch relay ),,,make sure that fuse is good,, key on position,, chk power at condenser fan motor ( driver side of car ) you should have close to 12 v on the blue/yellow wire and should be ground on the black wire .......
if no power at blue/yellow ,,
at the condenser fan relay connector, chk for power at white and yellow/white, ground at the green wire,,,if you got those ,, jump the white wire and blue/yellow wires ,fan connector plugged of course , if cond fan comes you got a bad relay..

chk this and let us know

 

Made a mistake reading the wiring diagram. Desert is correct. Check that #34 fuse. See if you have 12V on one of the two pins of the correct fuse when the key is in the II position.

 

I'm making progress. Unfortunately, I didn't have much time to work on it over the weekend. I double-checked the fuse, and it's good. I also checked the pins. I do have 12V on one of the two pins of the correct fuse when the key is in the II position.

I hot wired the condenser fan yesterday and it ran, so the motor is okay. I tried to hot wire the compressor, but it still wouldn't work. I figure it's either shot, or I don't have enough refrigerant in the system. I don't think that's the case, though. I put a small can in it earlier in the summer. I don't have a manifold gauge to test the pressure, but did get one of those R134a cans with the gauge that works on the low side on it. I'm not sure the gauge works, though; it's showing no pressure on my Honda and another car.

I didn't see any corrosion or loose connections around the fuse, but I need to double-check. I just had enough time to take a quick look yesterday. I'm still not sure where the voltage is dropping out. I'm also not sure if the compressor not engaging is related to the low voltage. I'm pretty turned around @ this point LOL

Oh, and I definitely appreciate all the help you guys are offering!! Next step?

 

That white wire also goes to the radiator fan control module. The module is located behind the glove box. It has an 8-pin connector going to it. It should mounted on the same metal support that the two blue connectors (used to check for ECU/TCU codes) are mounted to.

One of the wires is white (same white wire as the other ones). Check that it also has 12V with the key in the II position.

 

If you jumped the compressor and it did not engage you got a bad clutch.....

 

could be a bad a/c compressor coil..or wiring from connector to coil,,

 

dalejamin: I am interested to know how things work out, let us know what you find. Good Luck!

 

Sorry for the delay in reporting my progress. Been super busy the last couple weeks. This past Sunday, I attempted to jumper the pressure switch. I didn't hear the clutch kick on, so I gave up. However, this morning, I turned the air on the 'cuz the windsheild was fogging up.... and low and behold, the air was cold

As was stated above by people with far more experience than myself, it appears that the problem was the pressure switch, and that the refrigerant level was low prior to me putting the can in a month or so back. After jumpering the switch, I can now tolerate the heat!

Thanks to all who replied!!

 

Thank you for letting us know. Too many times we don't get to hear the "end of the story". Congrats, enjoy!