I have a slow leak in my A/C system on a 96 ex accord. it holds a charge for about a month, but I would like to fix and keep it through the winter for dehumidifying.

The process I was going to go through is the following:
1. replace all o-rings ( looks to be about 8 to 10 ). I think the leak is at the lines to the compressor based on general filth there.
2. replace the dryer/filter
3. Run a vacuum on the system to clean and test for leaks
4. charge with oil
5. charge with 134A.

I am not sure where I can find oil to oil the orings that I am going to put in.. and I do not know how much of the refrigerant oil I should use.

It looks like I can vacuum the system and then add oil using a prepackaged can similar to the refrigerant. So I would add the oil to a system that has a vacuum and then charge with oil ( 1 can 4ozs? ) and then pressurize with 134A as usual.

Am I leaving any steps out? Thanks

 

A common leak area is the Schrader valves. Check those first as they're easy to get to and easy to check if the system still has a charge. Take the caps off, put a drop of water over the valve stem and check for bubbles.

Majestic Honda's website has an A/C pipe diagram that shows o-rings. You can buy them there too.

If your car is a four cylinder, the FSM shows it takes 22.9 ounces. I think a can is 12 ounces, so a little less than two cans, less the oil charge, which I think adds two ounces of R134a & two ounces of oil. I've never added oil after fixing a slow leak but two ounces probably wouldn't hurt.

 

Anyone know what is suggested for a 96 accord which uses R134A? 100 PAG / 45 PAG oil? I may be replacing o-rings and I was wondering where I could get a small quantity of this oil to wet the rings prior to install.

Also, any ideas how to charge the system to check for leaks other than to charge with A/C? I guess I could use one of the smaller cans ($10), but I would use air if it had a standard schrader valve.

 

There is some stuff called nylog that you can use on the o-rings to keep them lubricated.

The easiest way to test for a leak is to use a manifold and pull a vacuum on the system. The system should hold vacuum if it is sealed properly.

 

I was thinking i would draw a vacuum after replacing seals, but I alsol wanted to pressurize to check for leaks with soapy water. I guess I may need to buy some sort of adapter to go from airpump to a/c connector

 

Suggest buying an oring package from ackits.com for your vehicle. They also have correct PAG oil (ND-8). They also have nylog oring lubricant. Great stuff, and one bottle will last years (I'm still on my first after 10 yrs).

I would also recommend pulling the evaporator. It's not a big job once you remove the system charge. There are several orings on the expansion valve that are prone to leak. I found them leaking on my 94EX and previously on a 90EX.

If you find a really dirty/greasy spot on the evaporator, you may have an evaporator leak. I found one on my 94EX and replaced w/ a used evaporator.

A good vacuum pump will provide basis for leak checking. Pull vacuum as low as it will go and allow pump to run for at least 30 mins. Close manifold set valves and monitor vacuum. It should hold w/ only a very small drop, perhaps < 5 in hg for a 1 hr leak check. If it drops more than that, a leak is likely.

autoacforum.com is a good resource for charging procedures and other support.

good luck