A/C stopped working after replacing resistor and blower motor
#1
A/C stopped working after replacing resistor and blower motor
94 Accord EX. Girlfriends car; an hour away so car not currently accessible.
Air blowing cold, working fine until I replaced the resistor and blower motor. Fan only worked on HI and blower was squealing. Now the compressor is not kicking on. Checked fuses in kick panel and under hood. They are fine. Read there was a relay somewhere else under the hood, but that has not been checked.
Could the resistor or blower have shorted something out?
(Only on here for another 15 minutes but appreciate any input)
Air blowing cold, working fine until I replaced the resistor and blower motor. Fan only worked on HI and blower was squealing. Now the compressor is not kicking on. Checked fuses in kick panel and under hood. They are fine. Read there was a relay somewhere else under the hood, but that has not been checked.
Could the resistor or blower have shorted something out?
(Only on here for another 15 minutes but appreciate any input)
Last edited by dvol; 09-15-2017 at 05:04 PM.
#4
Since you were down by the blower motor doing work, there is a thermostat wire that comes out of the evaporator housing that will cut-off the a/c to protect the system. Make sure you plugged that back in when you put everything back together.
#5
Don't recall disconnecting anything other than the blower motor connection as I was able to wiggle it out/in without much trouble (getting to that back screw was another story). Did put my hand up the blower motor airway to check for obstructions.
Will check and see if I knocked anything loose.
Will check and see if I knocked anything loose.
#6
The entire round blower housing is over to the side of the AC core, on the far side of the picture. It connects at the #16 gasket.
The thermostat sensor #19 is on the opposite side (air outlet) of the evaporator, but you can look for the connection wires outside of the central "box" of the ventilation system.
The thermostat sensor #19 is on the opposite side (air outlet) of the evaporator, but you can look for the connection wires outside of the central "box" of the ventilation system.
#7
Again, just me and I'm not looking at the service manual right now.....Code = lord help me and my memory.
Car on, blower on, A/C on - both cooling fans are running according to the OP. This to me says the "system" thinks the compressor is running - if it thought the compressor was not "running" (reached temp, refrig was too low, ect) then it would "cut" the fans.
Shouldn't we now be down to checking if the A/C compressor clutch is getting power
Sorry, been one of those days for me....back to regular scheduled programing.
Car on, blower on, A/C on - both cooling fans are running according to the OP. This to me says the "system" thinks the compressor is running - if it thought the compressor was not "running" (reached temp, refrig was too low, ect) then it would "cut" the fans.
Shouldn't we now be down to checking if the A/C compressor clutch is getting power
Sorry, been one of those days for me....back to regular scheduled programing.
#8
I think Poorman's right. If that sensor were disconnected the AC wouldn't try to switch on, therefore the 2 fans wouldn't run.
Of course, just plain old coolant temperature could trigger the fans, but that won't happen until the engine gets good & warm.
Of course, just plain old coolant temperature could trigger the fans, but that won't happen until the engine gets good & warm.
#10
Start at the compressor. It only has one wire. See if you get power to the compressor when you have the engine running and turn on the a/c. If you have power, then the compressor clutch has a problem. If no power, then go to the relay and test.