Hey guys I'm new to this forum. The car is a 96 sedan EX. This is my girlfriends car she said that she's having trouble with the locks. I saw that the driver door lock wasn't connected to anything. I connected the lock to what it was supposed to be connected to. The door locks now but when I unlock it and try to open it the door will lock itself. I've tried unplugging the wires that go to the door actuator and disconnecting the battery and neither of those changed anything I've spent around 2 hours trying to get this lock to work and I am so lost. I'll add on a video to show what's happening. Does anyone have any clue to what could be going on?

 

I can't open the video. Maybe save as an mp4 or other generic format.

What component was the wire harness originally disconnected?

 

I couldn't upload an MP4 file so I just made a Youtube video for it here's the link and there wasn't anything originally disconnected in the wiring harness. The thing that was originally disconnected was the door handle clip I'm not sure exactly what it's called. It's the part that connects the lock rod to the lock cylinder on the door.

 

The video is helpful. Have some more questions to eliminate some items. If you have a remote, does the door behave the same way? Are all four doors locking like the driver's door? Do the door(s) behave the same way if you use the key in the passenger door?

 

It doesn't have a remote lock and no the only door that's locking weird is the driver door. The passenger side acts normally if I use the key in the passenger door. So the only door behaving weird is the driver door but when the door auto locks itself when you try and open it I can hear all of the doors trying to lock too but none of them actually lock besides the driver door.

 

The likely culprits are the driver's actuator, the wiring, or the driver's key cylinder switch.

How many wires and what color wires are going to the driver's door lock actuator? From the wiring diagram, there should be two thicker wires and 3 smaller wires.

 

how would I test the key cylinder switch and the door actuator? Or is there no way to test and there is a black wire and a black wire with a red line through it for the small ones and there’s other wires one’s white and red, yellow and red, black, black and red, blue and white.

 

I can't tell excatly what is going on with the wire harness routing. It's been 15 years since I owned my 95 accord, so my memory is fuzzy on the layout. The thick wires to the actuator are power/ground to lock/unlock and are yel/red and wht/red. The other three wires blk/red, blk, and pink. The key switch will have a blue and black wire.

For testing, do you have a volt meter or a test light?

When my accord had something similar, I was new to DIY and much less information was available. My issue was the driver's door actuator, but I guessed after reading a bunch of similar issues in forums and replaced it. Learning more about electrical testing as more information got out there, any door actuator could cause this issue. There are youtube videos showing how to fix the internals of the actuator where a rubber stop likely broke. It might be quicker to pull the actuator and open the case to see if that piece is damaged.

I'd say unplug the power/ground to the actuator, and try the key. This might not work, because you might disconnect part of the circuit for the key switch.

If you want to look at the wiring diagram, google CD7_CD9.pdf. You should be able to dowload ~ a 42mb file that is the 94 shop manual that will be almost identical to your 96 for this case. Your US accord is called KH model in this manual as is also covers non-US accords. There are wiring diagrams showing how the key cylinder/switch sends power/ground to the control unit.

 

Thank you that's great information to know. And yes I do have a volt meter and do you unplug it at the connections I showed pictures of or is there a different connection on the actuator itself? Also it just seems weird to me that even with the battery disconnected it still auto locks itself. If the actuator is truly bad would it still cause the problem even if there is no power running to it?