Greetings to all my gurus and expert, Thanks in advance for your kind suggestions, i have some issues with my car and will ask in this thread.

Car: Honda Accord 95, EXI CD5 Auto Trans (Australia)

replaced distributor rotor and problem started, though of improve performance, so changed spark plugs, distributor rotor. couple of months ago changed distributor shaft seal and cap, now bought a new rotor. distributor is TEC TD-42U internal coil

i lost the contact spring comes from coil plastic tunner, saw in the manual its described as 'Contact Spring, as i lost during installation, i fit the cap without the spring. now car performance is very bad, at neutal or parking its revs okay but with trans load with a bit of uphill car doesnt respond at all. the same amount of time i reached 60KM i get 30KM now, is it because of distributor contact sprng? i have check spark plug cable resistance and its within manual range.

also cable from throttle to trans (trans shift cable) has a slack, i did tighten a bit but still no improvements, please help

 

Coil inside the distributor, right?
The spring in the top of the coil is needed to make electrical contact with the part on the underside of the distributor cap. Same job as the coil wire when the coil is outside of the distributor.

You could find any kind of spring that fits in there. Heavier-gauge spring wire is better. If it has been arcing across the air-gap, it may have built up some ugly corrosion which you should clean off.

 

Thanks Jim, Will do, i did the mistake two days ago, hope arcing dint do much damage.
Strange thing, i replaced distributor shaft seal and distributor o-ring that goes inside the engine, when i took off cap couple of days ago to replace rotor, still cap had some engine oil. what could be the other source of leaking oil in the distributor? also with electrical load (AC on, headlight on, radiator fan comes on) RPM dips a bit, went down 700 to 500 for a second and goes back to normal idle. Can some one throw some light on it please.

I have got some other issues with the car and hoping to get a kind advice in this thread.

Ok, replaced PCV valve and i clean PCV valve every now and then. everytime i see valve is clogged with engine oil, is it normal?

 

Seems like the shaft seal inside the distributor is the only place for oil to come from. The O-ring where the distributor mounts into the head would leak out onto the side of the head, not inside the distributor.

Look for a thread by me, in the DIY section, about setting the BASE idle. You unplug the IACV then set it. Plus some other stuff.

It's not unusual for the PCV to get oily. Excessive amounts would point to blowby coming from the rings. Easy for me to say, more difficult to actually define what's normal vs excessive.

 

Thanks Jim, put a spring in the distributor, running great now, thanks for ur input.

now another story, went for a highway drive, parked the car after half the way, its winter season here. i dint see anything but on the passenger side beside wheel there were lots of coolant, lots mean mini flood of coolant. heart started to pump like anything. parked the car in another slot, open engine hood, didnt see anything, may be the coolant was from another car. but heater was on full heat and blower motor on, but the airflow as not hot enough. when i stop at red light, when radiator fan comes on, that time the airflow is warm. temp gauge is always normal.

my question is the heater core connected to radiator flow? on the first instance if the dropped coolant from my car, would the temp gauge be normal for 200 KM ( i drove that miles after i saw the coolant on the car park)?

how the hot airflow works? does it deliver warm air based on the radiator temp? i am praying for everything that you guys say the coolant was not from my car. i saw some heater core replacement tutorial and if i need to do it, i will be mental, please say something gurus !

 

Ouch...
Remind me, you guys down there drive on the right side of the road, so the passenger side is the right side of the car?

The heater core IS connected to the radiator coolant. The heater hoses run across the right side of the engine compartment (right side of the car as you're sitting in the car). Have you actually checked the coolant level in the radiator?

A leaking heater hose (or heater control valve) will drain the radiator. Air pockets in the cooling system can cause the gauge to read kinda sorta normal even when it's hot. If there's any good news, it might be that it's winter and the car was moving. Idling in summer wouldn't be so good.

The heater works like this... The temperature control inside the cabin does 2 things at the same time. It opens & closes a valve in the heater hose - you can find that valve near the firewall & near the throttle-body.

The heater control also moves an air-mixing door to blend hot air with fresh air. That door & the water valve are worked with cables from the control on the dashboard.

 

Thanks Jim, coolant level is okay, thanks God! but in the countries like US, where snow falls, how the heater warms up cabin air if fresh air mixes up with hot air.

got an electrical problem now and with all due respect to all super mods, mods and all member of this forum family, i need Redbull's advice, where are you supermod Redbull.haha, sorry joking.

ok, parked the car, pulled handbrake, put my feet gently at the brake pedal, foot just touches the pedal and brake light goes on, and there is click (relay like but big click) comes near the handbrake base area, i tried this several times (just gently) put the foot over brake pedal, sometimes brakelight stays on and click sound comes from handbrake area, put the gear in drive and pedal works fine, brakelight goes when foot off pedal, what clicks in the handbrake area? why sometimes brake light is on? please help

 

There is a button/switch down at the brake pedal. Maybe it needs adjustment?

There's a small "button" on the brake pedal lever, so when you take your foot off the brake pedal, the pedal presses on that switch to turn off the brake lights. Sometimes that button falls apart or disappears, but usually that causes the brake lights to stay on forever.

The clicking in the console is probably the interlock for the shift lever. With an automatic transmission there's an interlock to allow shifting only when you are pressing on the brake pedal.

 

thanks Jim, pedal switch stopper was broken into pieces, i replaced it. saw some youtube videos, working fine now, cannot express in words how much i appreciate your and all members help here.

got two issues

got some leak near timing belt cover area, i regularly check oil dip stick, when i do highway drive, before going i top up the oil upto upper mark, after driving i check next day and the oil goes to lower mark, why i loose oil on highway drive? i regularly clean PCV valve.

also oil got burning color very soon after changing, i use Castrol 20-50W and replace it every 3K, after changing around 600 kM the oil already looks burnt, why that would be?

during cold start, car tail pipe throws water, i put a cardboard infront of the exhaust and saw it became black instantly, but smoke is not visible, got no clue.

 

Several things now...

You might lose oil through blowby (around the piston rings) which is kinda typical as engines get worn. That oil loss becomes more when you drive vs. leaking in your driveway. You have to burn A LOT of oil before the exhaust makes blue smoke.

I think you mean 20w-50 oil? I've never heard of 20-50w. (The "20w" is the oil's rating at low temperature & the 50 is the rating at high temperature) I think that oil is too heavy, I'd probably use 5w-30 in a 1995 Honda. The 20w part of the rating sounds too heavy for cold starts in wintertime.

It's normal for the exhaust to contain water, that's a very large component of the combustion products. After the engine warms up, that same water is still there, but it's not cool enough to condense to liquid.