Hello everyone,

I want to first preface this message that I have new spark plugs, new spark plug wires, a new battery, and a year old distributor in my 1996 Honda Accord.

The problem I'm having with my car is that every time I have to stop at a stoplight my car will shake. There's been a few times were it has shook and then turned off a few seconds later and then I had to start my car again. What may be the reason for this and how can I fix it? Also, when my car is in park and I make the windows go up the car does the same shaking motion. It is very strange.

Any help is appreciated. Thanks.

 

On my '92 5 spd Accord, when idling, if I use the power windows the idle drops slightly and engine bit rough.

I'm thinking it's the power of the window motor has to come from the alternator which then puts add'l load on motor, slowing it down just a bit.
Not planning on addressing it, here.

Don't know about A/T units - guessing the cheap immediate fix would be to put tranny into N when you're in that situation;
sounds like idle speed is too low.

 

It may be the idle air control valve (IACV) is unable to compensate for change and idle goes too low rpm (unstable) and engine may die.

Fix is to remove and clean the IACV screen, valve movement, and ports. Also clean the throttle plate and bore. Throttle body cleaner should be used for cleaning and rag to wipe grime away.

No Check Engine Light? If yes, post the codes.

good luck

 

Set the BASE idle & then reset your ECU & force a re-learn of idle control.

See the thread about setting the Base idle, over in the DIY section.

 

I live in CA so you can't just go to an Autozone and get your codes checked out for free. You have to go to an auto repair shop and have them do it for about $90. They call it an "electronic diagnosis". Check Engine Light bulb was probably taken out so idk if the light is supposed to come on. I don't have the money right now for an electronic diagnosis so I haven't been able to get any codes yet.

The IACV looks very tough to take out. I haven't found a video online of how to remove it step by step so I am pretty much stuck at this point.

 

IACV can be removed by removing attachment bolts w/ a 12mm closed end wrench. Space is tight but adequate. Leave cooling lines attached and clean IACV movement in place w/ generous spray of throttle body cleaner and old tooth brush.

Also remove air intake duct and clean throttle plate by opening manually to access w/ brush. Wipe out w/ paper towels.

You can buy an inexpensive obd2 code reader and read your own for < $75 and you'll have tool for future.

good luck

 

Wow the IACV seems impossible to unscrew. I was using a 12mm closed wrench to try to unscrew the nuts with the limited space I had and was unable to do so. It's on extremely tight. If I used a socket wrench would that make a difference? I currently don't have one just the basic 12mm wrench. The air intake was easy to take out, however, the bottom of it seems a little banged up from being moved around while driving. Should I be concerned with this? Here are some pictures:

 

Yes, I'd be worried about it. I don't see any place where it actually has a hole through the pipe, but it's getting there.

But that doesn't explain the unstable idle.

 

I have removed IACV on my 94EX which has same arrangement. Tedious but do-able.

BTW, you can obtain obd1 codes by shorting service check connector under the glove box (blue 2 wire connector may be plugged into a plastic holder). Read flash codes from Check Engine Light. See DIY forum for decode procedure.

good luck

 

I've disassembled parts on my car before using a tedious method it's just that I can't break any nuts loose on the IACV with the lack of leverage I have. Is there any way I could attach something to the wrench that could give me better leverage and strength to loosen the nuts. All the videos I've found online show the IACV attached then skips forward to it unattached. It doesn't actually show them disassembling it. Thanks for the replies everyone.