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Car Shakes and Sometimes Turns Off When Stopped At Stoplight

  #11  
Old 09-10-2014, 03:52 PM
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With a combination 12-mm wrench, you can engage the bolt/nut w/ the closed end, and slip the closed end of larger metric wrench into the open 12mm end and ~ double leverage to break the bolt.

good luck
 
  #12  
Old 09-11-2014, 08:35 PM
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I did exactly what you said but used a hammer to hit the long wrench to push the smaller one down since it wouldn't go down by me pushing it alone. After a very long time I was able to break the top bolt but had no success with the lower one. It's just on way too tight and there's no room. Do auto repair shops clean parts cause I think I'm gonna have to take my car to one so they can get this bolt off for me and they might as well clean the IACV.
 
  #13  
Old 09-12-2014, 08:43 AM
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Someone either overtightened or corrosion has siezed parts. You might try heating w/ a propane or acetylene torch (carefully as fuel rail is fairly close). This can sometimes help free a tight bolt/nut.

Is it a bolt or nut to be removed? Bolt I think otherwise, the IACV would not have room to clear a stud.

Yes, an auto shop should be able to remove/clean the IACV.

good luck
 
  #14  
Old 09-12-2014, 11:03 AM
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Originally Posted by TexasHonda View Post
With a combination 12-mm wrench, you can engage the bolt/nut w/ the closed end, and slip the closed end of larger metric wrench into the open 12mm end and ~ double leverage to break the bolt.
^X2, this has worked for me many times as well. Then again a ~24 inch piece of black pipe from your local hardware store is ~$4....in the proper diameter (one inch) can be a life saver as well. Just be sure you are going the right direction or you will snap the head off that tiny bolt without any trouble.....don't have my 97 test subject handy but I "think" there is enough room under/behind the TB to get the pipe in there and get an 1/8~1/4 turn of the wrench.

In a situation like this, IMHO heat is not where I would go - I'd mess up and bad things would happen. I'd go the "other way", using cold as your helper. CRC makes a "freeze off" spray that has worked well for me in the past.
 
  #15  
Old 10-05-2014, 09:46 PM
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I finally got a scanner and scanned for codes. These are what came up:

P1381
P0141
P0401

My car has only one catalytic converter by the way. Not sure if that has to do with anything but just throwing that out there.
 
  #16  
Old 10-05-2014, 11:17 PM
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Seems like your idle is too low,

try this, on top of your throttle body, under the mini vacuum hoses, there's a switch to adjust your idle.

Have someone step on the break or use the parking brake and your car in DRIVE and use a flat head screw driver to adjust it til stops shaking, loosing it will let more air in, but not too much coz then your car will lose power, its gotta balance between air and gas.

well, try that, it worked for me

OH Yeah, almost forgot,

turn off the A/C
 

Last edited by Alone; 10-05-2014 at 11:23 PM. Reason: forgot 1 thing
  #17  
Old 10-06-2014, 07:41 AM
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Low idle is a symptom to be addressed and not corrected by changing air bleed screw. IACV must be cleaned before any adjustment.

P1381 is CYP sensor intermittent operation. This could be a sensor fault (dirty/oily), wiring fault, connector fault, or faulty ECM. Electrical resistance measurements are checked, first at sensor connector, then again at ECM connector (same wires) to determine source of fault. Since it's intermittent, first check wires and connectors for obvious damage.

P0141 is a fault in the secondary O2 sensor heater. This fault will not cause immediate problems or symptoms and can be fixed last. Check of sensor resistance is performed to confirm heater element is open or shorted. If not, then wiring/connector fault, or ECM fault.

P0401 is insufficient EGR flow and for this generation requires cleaning EGR valve, EGR passages, EGR manifold, and EGR ports into intake manifold. See DIY forum for additional guidance.

good luck
 
  #18  
Old 10-22-2014, 01:40 PM
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Originally Posted by TexasHonda View Post
Low idle is a symptom to be addressed and not corrected by changing air bleed screw. IACV must be cleaned before any adjustment.

P1381 is CYP sensor intermittent operation. This could be a sensor fault (dirty/oily), wiring fault, connector fault, or faulty ECM. Electrical resistance measurements are checked, first at sensor connector, then again at ECM connector (same wires) to determine source of fault. Since it's intermittent, first check wires and connectors for obvious damage.

P0141 is a fault in the secondary O2 sensor heater. This fault will not cause immediate problems or symptoms and can be fixed last. Check of sensor resistance is performed to confirm heater element is open or shorted. If not, then wiring/connector fault, or ECM fault.

P0401 is insufficient EGR flow and for this generation requires cleaning EGR valve, EGR passages, EGR manifold, and EGR ports into intake manifold. See DIY forum for additional guidance.

good luck
Thanks for the insight on the codes TexasHonda. What are the symptoms from these codes though? And are any related to the car shaking when stopped problem? I wanted to know first before I get the IACV cleaned.

Also a new code has come up after scanning recently and is: P0740. I think it might have to do with the transmission so I posted it in my transmission slipping thread first.
 
  #19  
Old 10-22-2014, 05:56 PM
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Only P1381 is likely to cause idle/starting problems when present.


P0740 is a problematic code. It means lockup torque converter was not locking on command. It is not a lockup solenoid electrical fault, but can be a hydraulic fault in the lockup fluid circuit. About only thing that can be done is to remove the lockup solenoid, clean screens, and reinstall. I drove an Acura TL for several yrs w/ ths code on full time.


good luck
 
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