What you fail to comprehend is that nobody, on either forum, pushed aside the speeding up issue, what we said is, get the braking problem fixed first as, if nothing else, that is the far more dangerous fault with the car.

 

flush...

 

The throttle cable has been off and pushed in n out and rotated with pushing it in n out and found it to slid just fine as it should.
Visually the TB and its connections,springs and the likes look good. Cable is aligned with proper adjustments.
We are going to take the TB off for a more closer look inside it, if it matters to you or not we use Chevron gas only so whats in it cleans inside parts better than all others gas does.
The car still can get up word of 32 to 34 MPG so I think the TB is not worn out that much for the 277,000 miles on it.
My mechanic,myself and a new third party person not form here and not a mechanic employee has come up with what we all think was the problem it started from. We are looking into and testing the idea of the topping off the gas tank as we do from time to time and the up hill curve and angle the cars in lets gas/fuel siphon back through the EVAC purge control system allowing fuel to surge into the intake manifold causing it to accelerate all by its self. All is just in testing but it does make sense.

PS, for those that have made a big deal of the car not stopping by slamming on the brakes while the car accelerated and giving any cars engine isn't powerful enough to over power the brakes that might be true in normal temperatures but we don't have your normal temps. We live in and drive in temps that get well over 100 deg +. Try stopping any car with hot brakes. Race car drivers use much larger brake disc then the average car on the road, just something to think about...

 

Sorry, unless you've been repeatedly slamming on the brakes, over and over and over again, even a 100°F day will not cause enough fade to make much of a difference in stopping. The fact is, braking forces are many times more powerful than your engine.

 

If the throttle is held fully open for some reason, you'll loose most of your vacuum boost for the brakes. If you simply use more muscle on the brake pedal, the brakes should be able to stop the car. That is, if losing the boost is the only thing going on with the brakes.

I used to have a 2003 Accord LX K24 with a manual transmission. I thought the brakes on that car were over-boosted so losing the vacuum boost will be a big surprise to someone and they won't be accustomed to pressing that hard on the pedal. So I can understand to some extent. You have to press substantially harder than you would on say a 1964 car with non-boosted brakes.

I've also got the brakes on that car pretty hot (when my wife wasn't watching...) and they didn't have much fading. But how about fresh brake fluid? A little moisture will drop the boiling point... If that's the case, the brake pedal will go down noticeably farther to the floor. Do you know if that's happening?

I don't buy the EVAP purge line. It can't flow enough fuel, and besides a lot of extra fuel without the corresponding air will simply cause the engine to stall. Something must be allowing air in, like the throttle being opened. The IACV & other things like that aren't really capable of flowing enough air to do more than a subtle increase.

Meanwhile, we're all trying to help out with what we know. I don't like to see a thread turn into picking a fight about this when we can all try to help out.

 

Lets stop with the bickering and attacking and help this guy out.

Does your car only have brake problems when the engine starts surging?

If this happens again, have your wife put the car into neutral and see if the brakes can slow down the car. Make sure the emergency brake works properly and the rear pads are in decent shape. The emergency brake is always an option.

If the brake and accelerating issue are only happening at the same time, the maybe you have a vacuum leak on the brake booster/vac line. Inspect the brake booster and the large vacuum line. Also inspect all the vacuum hoses for anything obvious. Maybe have the intake smoke tested to locate vacuum leaks.

 

Without knowing how your scanner works - In regards to the 16-01 fault code, could it be a combination of code 16 and 01?

16 - fuel injectors
01 - oxygen sensor #1

Maybe the throttle body position sensor is the issue?

 

Flush!!!

 

Thanks. We have been on vacation since 6/6-6/16, so not much has been done. My mechanic friend has been swamped with his "real job" so he hasn't been working on it ether. Ordering parts, right rear wheel speed sensor, accelerator cable and cruise control cable .All vac lines are being looked into so not ignoring that.

 

What?