I replaced the clutch, pressure plate, pilot bearing, throwout bearing, master cylinder and slave. I bled the system and when i press the clutch it won’t go into any gear. I can get it to grind reverse though. I’m sure i did everything 100%, I followed Eric The Car Guy’s tutorial on how to do it. It’s a 1992 Accord LX if anyone can give me some suggestions that would be greatly appreciated.

 

How about shifting into all the gears when the engine isn't running? I'm assuming that's OK...

Have someone help while you watch the clutch throw-out lever. First, note its position before your helper does anything.

Have them pump the clutch pedal while you watch. The throw-out lever should move back & forth about 1/2-inch. Also note whether it pumps itself into much of a new position with repeated pumping (it shouldn't do that).

I've heard of a dragging clutch caused by installing the clutch disk backwards. The center hub sticks out farther on one side... (you'll want to rule out everything else before pulling the transmission back off)

 

Yeah the rod on the slave moves fine, and shifting into all gears while the engine off is fine. I’m not sure if i have to bleed it more because the pedal is still a little soft but i know when i put the clutch disk in i triple checked i had it right.

 

The distance that the throw-out fork moves can tell you about bleeding. Air still in the system will give less motion than what's needed, but usually repeated pumping will make it work.

Have the engine running, transmission in neutral.
Three quick pumps on the clutch pedal & hold it down.
Does it shift into gear NOW? (if so, that means you have to bleed it some more)
If that doesn't allow it to shift, maybe it's still possible that it needs more bleeding.

This is kind of a long shot, but get an inspection mirror and some good lights. Have a real good look at the throw-out fork, as far into the bellhousing as you can see. Try to be clever with positioning the lights & mirrors, & have someone work the pedal while you watch. You're looking for cracks in the throw-out lever itself. Not too long ago, I saw a thread that stumped people and it turned out the throw-out fork was cracked and it was bending rather than compressing the fingers of the pressure plate.

 

It wouldn’t go into gear after i did what u said. i added a video of me pumping my clutch and watching the slave rod. should i just try bleeding it more? i’m not gonna be happy if i have to drop the tranny again

 

 

I wish I had some of the Hondas around here to look at. I'm beginning to doubt my memory of how far the throw-out fork needs to move.

PLEASE, how about someone with a gen-4 or gen-5 manual transmission do that same thing to see how far the lever moves??

 

So i came across something that might be useful information. I put the car in 1st and as i was starting it, the car moved forward a couple inches before it could actually start. i had the ebrake up and my foot on the brake and it didn’t stop it. it locked the gearbox in 1st but i forced it back into neutral. any ideas of why it did this? and why it still won’t let me put it in gear while running?

 

That is absolutely a dragging clutch. It's not disengaging completely.

What's happening is the dragging clutch is applying some amount of torque to the transmission. That causes the synchros to prevent shifting into or out of any gear. Reverse doesn't have a synchro so it grinds instead of preventing the shift lever moving.

With a new clutch, dragging is almost certainly caused by the hydraulic system and/or the throw-out fork being unable to press far enough into the fingers of the pressure plate. You have to find the underlying reason for that happening. Have you taken a good look at the throw-out fork for cracks and flexing?

 

Makes me wonder if the clutch fork came off the pivot ball, and is not allowing the clutch to actually engage. I only say that, as that's what it sounds like is happening. The throw out bearing isn't making contact, or enough contact with the clutch diaphragm. Sound possible to you Jim?