Cel problems 9 codes!!!
Honda Accord 91 lx 4dr Auto.. Has check engine light on,
I self diagnosed, and got code 41 from The blinking CEL light, and codes : 1, 2, 3, 5, 7, 8, 14, and 15 from the blinking S light.
The car was in a pretty bad accident where I had to rebuild the entire front end, and also The MAIN 90Amp fuse blew out during this accident. The car runs and drives, and idles a little low. Im sure a few oxygen sensors are bad, but I just dont think the car would run as strong as it does if all these sensors were out. I dont think its running lean or rich either.
Do you guys think the ECU is faulty? How should I approach this in the most cost efficient way? I dont have a multimeter should I get one and go through and test every sensor? how do i tell if they are bad?
I self diagnosed, and got code 41 from The blinking CEL light, and codes : 1, 2, 3, 5, 7, 8, 14, and 15 from the blinking S light.
The car was in a pretty bad accident where I had to rebuild the entire front end, and also The MAIN 90Amp fuse blew out during this accident. The car runs and drives, and idles a little low. Im sure a few oxygen sensors are bad, but I just dont think the car would run as strong as it does if all these sensors were out. I dont think its running lean or rich either.
Do you guys think the ECU is faulty? How should I approach this in the most cost efficient way? I dont have a multimeter should I get one and go through and test every sensor? how do i tell if they are bad?
Code 41 is the heater circuit for the oxygen sensor. You only have ONE oxygen sensor #7 in this picture, on the exhaust manifold.

Unplug it & find the 2 same-color (black?) wires on the sensor's pigtail. Measure resistance between them - should be 10 to 40 ohms. If that's bad, get a new sensor. If that resistance is OK then come back here & someone should help you through some further diagnosis.
Yeah, get a multimeter. You wouldn't work on the car if the only tools you owned were a pliers & hammer, right? They can be as cheap as $10 or $20 from places like AutoZone. You don't need a $200 Fluke (but they ARE awesome). Do you buy your socket wrench sets from KMart or from Snap-On?
OH yeah... All those other codes from the "S" light? I'm not really much of an auto-trans guru.

Unplug it & find the 2 same-color (black?) wires on the sensor's pigtail. Measure resistance between them - should be 10 to 40 ohms. If that's bad, get a new sensor. If that resistance is OK then come back here & someone should help you through some further diagnosis.
Yeah, get a multimeter. You wouldn't work on the car if the only tools you owned were a pliers & hammer, right? They can be as cheap as $10 or $20 from places like AutoZone. You don't need a $200 Fluke (but they ARE awesome). Do you buy your socket wrench sets from KMart or from Snap-On?
OH yeah... All those other codes from the "S" light? I'm not really much of an auto-trans guru.
Ok I am a newb to the honda realm a bit, I was'nt sure if the blinking S light was engine related or transmission related.. I was thinking the S codes I got were also CEL codes... how dumb of me. Yeah I had an "ok" multimeter but my dumbbutt friend ran it over... And im not quite rich enough for snap on tools yet.. I got craftmen sockets, they arent the greatest but they work ya know? Alright thanks for the help on that code...
As for the Transmission codes, I think it might have a faulty TCU... I here these accords have had a lot of issues with them being faulty, it has had some problems starting now and then, with the S light flashing..
As for the Transmission codes, I think it might have a faulty TCU... I here these accords have had a lot of issues with them being faulty, it has had some problems starting now and then, with the S light flashing..
Last edited by g22cd5; Jul 12, 2010 at 11:56 AM.
if you are receiving codes from the TCU then it's not bad. I dunno why everyone jumps to that conclusion every time. For the most part they dont go bad they get diagnosed wrong. I cant find my link for the TCU codes right now. But you also can go to most parts stores and have them tell you what your codes mean.
TCU Codes:
1-Lock-up solenoid 'A' circuit open or shorted.
2-Lock-up solenoid 'B' circuit open or shorted.
3-Throttle Position Sensor circuit open or shorted.
4-Vehicle Speed Sensor open or shorted - No signal from speedometer.
5-Shift Lever Position Switch circuit shorted.
6-Shift Lever Position Switch circuit open.
7-Shift Solenoid 'A' circuit open or shorted.
8-Shift Solenoid 'B' circuit open or shorted.
9-Counter shaft or transmission speed pulse generator open or shorted.
10-Coolant Temperature Sensor open or shorted.
11-Engine RPM (Ignition coil signal) open or shorted.
12-(No code 12 used)
13-Main shaft speed pulse generator open or shorted.
14-Linear (line pressure control) solenoid open or shorted.
15-Kick down switch circuit shorted.
Reset your ecu and tcu. Disconnect the bat. (the longer the better like half hr or so) Then take her for a drive(*edit* reconnect the bat. be4 drivin I dont think your dumb or anything just I know ppl who would 4get and try to go for a drive..lol *edit*. )Dont go far tho incase something happens and your not far from home...and see what codes pop. B/c if you had codes in the past and thos parts got fix (by previous owner or something) and never erased then you TCU will still spit out the coded even know they have been fixed.
1-Lock-up solenoid 'A' circuit open or shorted.
2-Lock-up solenoid 'B' circuit open or shorted.
3-Throttle Position Sensor circuit open or shorted.
4-Vehicle Speed Sensor open or shorted - No signal from speedometer.
5-Shift Lever Position Switch circuit shorted.
6-Shift Lever Position Switch circuit open.
7-Shift Solenoid 'A' circuit open or shorted.
8-Shift Solenoid 'B' circuit open or shorted.
9-Counter shaft or transmission speed pulse generator open or shorted.
10-Coolant Temperature Sensor open or shorted.
11-Engine RPM (Ignition coil signal) open or shorted.
12-(No code 12 used)
13-Main shaft speed pulse generator open or shorted.
14-Linear (line pressure control) solenoid open or shorted.
15-Kick down switch circuit shorted.
Reset your ecu and tcu. Disconnect the bat. (the longer the better like half hr or so) Then take her for a drive(*edit* reconnect the bat. be4 drivin I dont think your dumb or anything just I know ppl who would 4get and try to go for a drive..lol *edit*. )Dont go far tho incase something happens and your not far from home...and see what codes pop. B/c if you had codes in the past and thos parts got fix (by previous owner or something) and never erased then you TCU will still spit out the coded even know they have been fixed.
Last edited by g22cd5; Jul 13, 2010 at 06:17 PM.
I replaced the oxygen sensor.. It was snapped in half prolly from the crash.. also reset car a few nights ago cause It wouldnt start, and there was a flashing S light... actually it started after I disconnected the neg terminal for a few mins, but was in limp mode. I then disconnected it for about 20 mins, then It started just fine and drove fine. No more CEL, and also no more S codes after about 20 miles of driving. It seems to happen on hotter days or after a lot of driving. The tranny fluid looks like a half quart low, I looked at it while the car was on, I did that right, right? Do you guys still think it isnt the TCU? the problem seems so intermittent.
No I doubt its the tcu. It might be shift solenoids... this will happen intermittently like your talking about. I know 1st hand my old tranny did this. It would drive fine for days then it would act up and start flashing. Ended up being the solenoids
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post




