Cleaning AC evaporator
#1
Unregistered
Posts: n/a
Cleaning AC evaporator
I would like to use one of the spray cleaner/santizers to remove the disgusting smell coming from the AC evaporator each time I start-up. My question how do I can access to the evaporator coil so that I can spray in the solution. Do I need to remove the glove box? Can I access the evap from under the hood?? Also if anyone has used one of these aerosol cleaners and has a recommendation. please provide the product name.
Thanks
Thanks
#3
RE: Cleaning AC evaporator
Hi Vettman...
When I go back into work at the parts store I will look up the product name for you. I believe I have it for sale so I will be able to tell you the brand name and what it cost to purchase.
WheelBrokerAng[8D]
When I go back into work at the parts store I will look up the product name for you. I believe I have it for sale so I will be able to tell you the brand name and what it cost to purchase.
WheelBrokerAng[8D]
#4
RE: Cleaning AC evaporator
Hello
To clean the evaporator it may be necessary to have an A/C person discharge the R-134 and disconnect the unit. On my '92 (some relevance here) you may or may not need this. I am still exploring this issue. I have not explored this fully so double check before you do the screwdriver shuffle. Having said that:
Pull the glovebox out and there should be two screws holding the framework to the glovebox. Remove the screws. More bezels may need to go.
On most Honeydoos of Nineties vintage it is required that you remove the shroud over the bottom of the evap/blower on the right hand side.
Now I would get a bunch of 4x4 or 2x4 wood blocks (12 or 14 in clearance) because there is framework to be removed around the evap- namely a metal bracket or two. Also get several old towels and remove the floor mat. Block up underneath the evaporator (next to the blower) just in case and LEAVE the two nuts on the front top of the evaporator alone. These help hold the evap onto your vehicle. Also do not loosen any hoses PLEASE.
If you can remove the shroud on the bottom of the evap that is good and well. If not you may have to go to an A/C shop.
Or as a Band-Aid solution you should put the car's emergency brake on, and open the hood. Run the A/C with the windows open and all vents on as you spray Lysol or another odor killer into the intake grille beneath the rain ridge below the wiper arms. There are those anti-odor agents which claim to kill the odor rather than mask it. This will get you by for a few days.
I have heard that body repair shops have an odor agent they force into the system. He was unsure but a Honda dealer's salesman mentioned this to me.
I have a cow dung odor that appears during the first few minutes. How about yours?
KAT
To clean the evaporator it may be necessary to have an A/C person discharge the R-134 and disconnect the unit. On my '92 (some relevance here) you may or may not need this. I am still exploring this issue. I have not explored this fully so double check before you do the screwdriver shuffle. Having said that:
Pull the glovebox out and there should be two screws holding the framework to the glovebox. Remove the screws. More bezels may need to go.
On most Honeydoos of Nineties vintage it is required that you remove the shroud over the bottom of the evap/blower on the right hand side.
Now I would get a bunch of 4x4 or 2x4 wood blocks (12 or 14 in clearance) because there is framework to be removed around the evap- namely a metal bracket or two. Also get several old towels and remove the floor mat. Block up underneath the evaporator (next to the blower) just in case and LEAVE the two nuts on the front top of the evaporator alone. These help hold the evap onto your vehicle. Also do not loosen any hoses PLEASE.
If you can remove the shroud on the bottom of the evap that is good and well. If not you may have to go to an A/C shop.
Or as a Band-Aid solution you should put the car's emergency brake on, and open the hood. Run the A/C with the windows open and all vents on as you spray Lysol or another odor killer into the intake grille beneath the rain ridge below the wiper arms. There are those anti-odor agents which claim to kill the odor rather than mask it. This will get you by for a few days.
I have heard that body repair shops have an odor agent they force into the system. He was unsure but a Honda dealer's salesman mentioned this to me.
I have a cow dung odor that appears during the first few minutes. How about yours?
KAT
#5
RE: Cleaning AC evaporator
DO NOT WASTE ANY TIME WITH SPRAYS
to properly clean the evap you have to remove it from the car, ( evacuate + recharge a/c system is needed ),, once out, remove the outer covers , plug up the 2 lines ( duct tape ) and clean the evap with soap and water . blow with air, put it together, before installing in car spray some fridgy fresh , install in car
to properly clean the evap you have to remove it from the car, ( evacuate + recharge a/c system is needed ),, once out, remove the outer covers , plug up the 2 lines ( duct tape ) and clean the evap with soap and water . blow with air, put it together, before installing in car spray some fridgy fresh , install in car
#6
RE: Cleaning AC evaporator
If you want to prevent this problem, use fresh air setting and turn off the A/C for the last few minutes of every trip. The mold and stink is caused by too much moisture left in the evap housing when the car is sitting with no air flow.
#7
RE: Cleaning AC evaporator
Hondadude:
I think the cleaning of my evap will have to wait until I decide to convert the A/C to R134- unless I get an Accord and quit bumming off my father. His car is an unused backup which I utilize to alleviate gas pains largely confined to my wallet.
Thanks
Ken
I think the cleaning of my evap will have to wait until I decide to convert the A/C to R134- unless I get an Accord and quit bumming off my father. His car is an unused backup which I utilize to alleviate gas pains largely confined to my wallet.
Thanks
Ken
#8