Hey Guys, I have a CEL and my code is coming up as 90. Ive been researching it but I came across 2 names, "

EVAP Control Canister Vent Shut Valve" and "Purge Valve"

Here are posts I found online:
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Mike Behnke - 08 Dec 2004 19:32 GMT
Probably called a purge valve. Allows vapors collected in canister
while engine off to be rerouted to engine at start-up.


rufovillosum@yahoo.com - 09 Dec 2004 13:35 GMT
Here are the exact details: The Honda manual calls this an EVAP
Control Canister Vent Shut Valve. The sales slip indicates part#
17310-SOX-A02 and describes it as W-valve. The thing mounts on the end
of the canister facing the frame rail under the read driver's side
door. It's the upper of the two similar-looking pods, hence the need
to remove the canister to get at it. It has one large hose, and one
electrical connector. It mounts to the canister with two phillips
screws.

In my case I removed it, applied 12 V from a DC wall hugger, and heard
the solenoid activating and deactivating as I made or broke contact. I
put it back on the car, cleared the code, and everything was fine for
two weeks. Then the light came back on. I bought the new valve and
installed it in March 03, and haven't had a problem since.



John Edwards - 02 Jan 2005 02:08 GMT
Update on this topic. I have replaced the Canister shut off valve as
suggested by rufovillo... I have reset the check engine light. It is
been a couple of days, the light has not yet come back. I have driven
the vehicle atleast 5~6 times for atleast a distance of 80 miles. I am
not sure what Honda manual means when it says that "the light will come
on when the sensor detects the problem in three consecutive drive
cycles" I am not sure what a drive cycle is, but atleast I have driven
the car 5 times, if that counts then the problem has been resolved.

BTW, if anyone is following this thread, to remove the canister shut
off valve, we need to remove the canister itself as specified in the
earlier posts by others. One thing to add is, there is only one bolt
that holds the canister to the frame. I had by mistake tried to remove
the frame itself which has three bolts. Once the canister is out,
replacing the vavle is easy, except that the two philips screws that
hold the valve to the canister are very tight ( I wonder why Honda does
not have a bolt instead of the screws !!! ) In my experience, when I
try to remove the screws, the threads on the screw almost always get
ripped off, I wonder why they don't have bolts instead !!



roadmaster58 - 12 Oct 2006 10:34 GMT
I also got the code p1457 on my Honda Accord, it was the purge valve back
next to the charcoal cannister which is located back underneath the vehicle
on the drivers side rear tire area. There are a few hoses attached to the
cannister and purge vavle, and 1 bolt that holds the cannister in place. The
purge vavle is held in place with 2 phillips head screws which you have to
soak with penetrating oil and then get a pair of vise grips on them to loosen
them up. This repair is a very easy repair for a decent home mechanic, and it
will save you a bundle of money too. You have to reset the code after you are
done, remove the negative side cable from the battery and the light will go
out. Then you must drive about 16 miles in order for the parameters of the
computer to straighten out, your car may stall at idle in that period till
you achieve the proper distance of driving. I payed $44 for the part, its not
a easy part to find, but its online. I now have over 600 miles since the
repair and the check engine light is still out.





These posts were all on the same Post on a different website. I tried looking for it online such as autozone but im confused. Can someone help me please.

 

The code 90 you got is the OBD1 version of the codes by shorting the OBD2 connector. The OBD2 codes are more specific. You would need a scanner to get the more specific code.

There is a TSB about the valve that commonly goes bad in cars that live where salt is used on the road. You can test the valves by unplugging the electrical connector and supplying 12V to each valve. The one that will not click is likely the culprit.

Copy and paste the link below into your browser to get the TSB I am talking about.

driveaccord.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=1297&d=1107021677

 

Youre amazing PA! Okay ill try to find a place that will scan it for me since Autozone isn't allowed anymore

 

JIFIDELH - i need more info on removing/droppping the cannister so I can get at the two way valve screw heads...I see the 3 bolts holding the cannister in place...one of them is partially blocked by a frame or gas tank. My question is: YOU mentioned one bolt holding the canister vs taking out the 3 bolts. Is that ONE bolt on TOP of the cannister ? Can you help me here, Im stuck until I can get the cannister dropped down. thx.